LeRoy & Lewis Barbecue
With its famous names and barbecue dynasties, Central Texas isn’t the easiest place for pitmasters to break out on their own. Former Freedmen’s chef Evan LeRoy is doing it by throwing out the rule book. While the meat that comes out on the peach paper-lined trays comes from the meat market tradition, it is often in unusual cuts like beef cheek. And the sandwiches might come with a pile of kimchi. All of it expands the parameters of what Austin’s barbecue can be.