Waste not want not

These innovative Austin restaurants are finding delicious ways to battle food waste

Intero thinks critically about how to save food scraps.

Intero/ Facebook

Battling food waste isn’t a new issue in Austin restaurants. Ingredients, after all, cost money, and using every available ounce ensures that margins don’t go in the trash. Still, a new generation of Austin chefs is taking the common kitchen practice even further — not only practicing whole animal butchery, but using every available kitchen scrap.

North Loop’s Foreign & Domestic has always been at the forefront of mindful cooking. Former owner Ned Elliott was a pioneer of snout-to-tail menus long before the the idea was common in the Capital City. Now, chefs Sarah Heard and Nathan Lemley — who took over the restaurant in late 2017 — carry on the tradition.

While speaking to CultureMap about how her eatery minimizes food waste, chef/owner Sarah Heard happens to be on her way to procure tomato leaves for a pasta dish. “I don’t know if anyone else in Austin is using tomato leaves right now, but they should be,” Heard says.

Tomato leaves, which would otherwise be bound for the compost bin, make the base for a sauce that also includes cheese whey — a byproduct of the restaurant’s cheesemaking operation — and also go into the bright green pasta. “And then there’s a salad of fresh tomato leaves and shaved red onions on top,” Heard says.

The restaurant has been experimenting more and more. Recently, the kitchen prepared a white French onion soup. “It was kind of wild,” Heard says. “Because the whey has a meaty flavor to it — and we used that instead of beef broth. But that’s an entire menu item pretty much made out of something that would have been thrown away.”

Foreign & Domestic is just one of the Austin hospitality players that is looking to minimize food waste and repurpose ingredients that would’ve once been destined for the trash can or compost bin. The growing culture was helped along by the city’s ambitious zero-waste goals, which aim to divert 50 percent of waste from landfills by 2040.

Ian Thurwachter, executive chef of East Austin Italian restaurant Intero, has also been on a journey to find inventive ways to use leftover ingredients. He does traditional kitchen tricks like using meat bones for stock, but also creates a chili vinegar from pepper scraps and a "yum-yum" powder out of dehydrated veggie scraps.

His wife, Krystal Craig, runs the front of the house, and says the couple strive to be as zero-waste as possible in their own lives. "We believed that we could translate that into a restaurant that also embodied our cooking style,” she says.

Craig’s approach is echoed in a variety of other local spots. L’Oca d’Oro in Mueller currently serves grilled shrimp rigatoni with a ricotta whey and leek puree. Chicken skin makes Sour Duck Market’s tater tots even more decadent. Even Austin-based Whole Foods Market named root-to-stem cooking as one of its top food trends in 2018.

Despite the positive environmental impact of low- and zero-waste kitchens, taste is still at the forefront. By using underused plant and animal parts, chefs open their menus up to new flavors and textures. The culture shift is ultimately a boon to Austin diners.

“Once we became aware of what we were throwing away, and started asking ourselves, 'why are we throwing this away?,' then we were able to figure out really delicious ways of using things that otherwise would just go into the trash,” says Thurwachter.

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Come to Dinner with Us

Casual eats and Asian desserts: Our favorite Austin meals of 2024

Photo by Brianna Caleri

Dipdipdip Tatsu-Ya's yuzu panna cotta was perfect with this strawberry granita, which changes daily.

Readers, are you ready for our annual dinner date? The CultureMap Austin crew spends a lot of time keeping up with local restaurants, but the ones that really stick out often aren't new. In between all the openings and rebrandings are the regular, everyday meals that keep us going.

We don't usually get a chance to show those off, so every December we spend some time with our top meals of the year, regardless of how newsworthy they were at the time.

Believe it or not, we do have lives outside of stuffing ourselves and 2024 was a busy year. Looking back, we leaned a bit more than usual into casual food — a couple of things on this list cost less than $15. But if you're hoping to impress a date or find a meal that's actually worth $75+, we've got that too.

In no particular order, here are the 10 meals and snacks we thought most about in 2024.

Three meals in one: The Little Darlin'
We listen and we don't judge: Sometimes it's 8 pm and you haven't eaten anything all day. I've learned to break up the inertia with a burger from the Little Darlin', the outdoorsy South Austin watering hole with shockingly great eats. Providing most of the calories a person could need in a day, this big burger and shoestring fry combo feeds indulgence, not gluttony. The thick, charred patty isn't greasy or overly salty, the sweet pickles and red onions are a lovely pick-me-up, and the atmosphere is warm and grounding. There is zero pretension here and I am invisible — most folks hang out in groups, someone's always playing pool, and there's usually some metal subgenre filling the air. — Brianna Caleri, Austin editor

Sushi: Tare
When this intimate omakase restaurant hidden inside an unassuming North Austin office building made its debut in January, I never expected its Texas-inspired Japanese sushi to stay on my mind for the rest of the year. My favorite bites included a fatty bluefin tuna with negi dare; and an amaebi shrimp over a tamale, topped with queso fresco, chili oil, and lemon. A picturesque slice of matcha tres leches cake was the perfect dessert to cap off the experience, prepared by pastry chef Danielle Martinez. I was thrilled to see Tare recognized on the list Michelin-recommended restaurants in Austin, and I can't wait to see what Chef Carranza comes up with next. — Amber Heckler, network writer

Tare omakase restaurant in North Austin Have you ever seen tres leches look so pretty? (Pictured: matcha tres leches atPhoto by Amber Heckler

For every occasion: Tatsu-Ya Group restaurants
Having eaten at every Tatsu-Ya concept in Austin this year, I couldn't possibly cut any from the greatest hits. From a generous, exclusive media feast at Kemuri Tatsu-Ya, to extremely casual visits at the restaurant that gets the largest annual share of my paycheck each year, Ramen Tatsu-Ya, there's something funky and celebratory about every meal without sacrificing accessibility. Top dishes to try are: the crunchy, creative, and umami-drenched lotus and avocado salad at Kemuri; the sharable pu pu platter at Tiki with super-tender coconut shrimp; and my favorite dessert of the year, the light and bright yuzu panna cotta with a daily granita at Dipdipdip. — BC

Farmers market finds: Hijita chocolate
If there's only one thing you need to know about me: I love chocolate. It's a lifelong obsession of mine, and there's nothing more exciting to me than discovering new locally made brands. I first tried Hijita's drinking chocolate at the Texas Farmers Market's Lakeline location (which has since moved to Cedar Park's Bell District), and I've been following the brand's journey ever since. I really appreciate founder Ashley Ugarte's dedication to working directly with family-owned cacao farms in southern Mexico. Plus, it's nice to have a local replacement for a certain Nestlé-owned hot chocolate brand. — AH

Perfectly seasoned: Super Thai Cuisine
I like everything at Super Thai Cuisine, from the salty fried rice to the homey gaeng karee (yellow curry). But my new favorite dish has to be the larb moo and kaw gee — a spicy ground turkey or pork salad with lettuce cups and grilled sticky rice. It's hard to know where to begin, since each ingredient feels both like it's fundamentally necessary and a delightful treat. The meat makes it robust, but the vegetables balance the heaviness; then the chili lime dressing brightens everything up. I don't know if Super Thai has an amazing cucumber supplier or the dish is just that well balanced, but I've never appreciated this simple vegetable more. — BC

Family-style eats with a Caribbean flare: Canje
Canje has rightfully earned plenty of local and national acclaim this year, but that hasn't changed how the restaurant provides excellent service and delicious meals for its guests. I'm a big fan of family-style dining, especially when I'm with a group that wants to try a variety of things on the menu. Canje's team are masters at coursing out meals, so we're never left waiting too long for our next dish. The restaurant's vibrant yet easygoing atmosphere also never makes us feel rushed, which is a quality I appreciate more than anything else when I'm spending quality time with my friends. — AH

Worth a drive: Palo Seco 512
With so many taco trucks around Austin, it doesn't seem like anyone would need to drive more than 15 minutes to fill a craving. But Palo Seco 512 is worth visiting East Oltorf, an area most Austinites aren't just passing by most days. This trailer does comfort food right, specializing in birria tacos and barely branching out from there — adding the consomé to a bowl of instant noodles or serving it with some grilled cheese for dipping. For extra decadent birria tacos, the chef grills a pile of cheese on the flat top first, creating a beautiful layer of caramelization. — BC

Sometimes you can just see that a taco is perfect. (Pictured: birria tacos with cheese at Palo Seco 512)Photo by Brianna Caleri

Overseas and at home: Nando's PERi-PERi
My husband and I first tried Nando's while we were in London earlier this year, and we were really impressed by the various flavorful sauces that accompany the marinated grilled chicken. So when we returned and learned Nando's was opening its fourth Texas location in Austin, we knew we had to make a visit. We were very grateful to be invited when the restaurant opened in November, and the chicken was just as juicy as we remembered from our London experience. We'll definitely be returning in 2025. — AH

Do as the French do: Bureau de Poste
In case every foodie movie, TV show, and book haven't already convinced you, a French omelette is the pinnacle of cooking. Austinites who only know the American way can amend their egg-eating habits at Bureau de Poste. The key element is very gentle cooking, leaving the inside gooey and avoiding any crispiness the outside. During a recent visit, a guest seated next to me seemed upset to learn about this French standard and sent hers back for more cooking; the staff very politely explained the difference and set her up with an elegantly dubbed "well-done" omelette, which she loved. I'll keep appreciating my omelettes as-is, but it was sweet to watch the servers bridge that cultural divide and respect the chefs, while getting the diner what she really wanted. — BC

Southern comfort sweet tooth cravings: Uptown Sports Club
Uptown Sports Club's great vibes, laid-back service, and homey menu offerings were at the top of Brianna's priority list when she named this restaurant among her favorites in 2023. While I do appreciate Uptown's hearty bowl of gumbo and its various po' boys, the dish that really stood out to me when I visited earlier this year was the apple pie bread pudding. It was my ideal version of what a bread pudding should be, and it had all of the classic fall flavors I was looking for when I walked in that night. The bourbon caramel and gigantic scoop of Blue Bell homemade vanilla ice cream definitely satisfied my sweet tooth, too. — AH

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