Say uncle

Via 313 and Nickel City team sets opening date for new Hyde Park restaurant

Uncle Nicky's wants to make you a sandwich.

Photo by Consumable Content

Over the past decade, Nicholas Yanes, brothers Zane and Brandon Hunt, and Travis Tober have redefined Austin’s dining culture. Yanes rose to the heap of 2015’s Italian boom with post oak grilled porchetta and puffy potatoes at Juniper while the Hunts changed the shape of pizza — literally — at Via 313.

And those Miller High Life ponies lined up in coolers in the city’s hippest bars owe much to Nickel City’s Tober, whose combination of refined palate and everyman tastes is now helping set the stage for Central Texas’ next cocktail revolution.

On February 4, Austinites will discover what happens when they combine their talents with the opening of Uncle Nicky’s, a Northern Italian-infused all-day cafe in Hyde Park. Located at 4222 Duval St., the new eatery will fill the hole left by former occupants Dolce Vita, with a casual menu featuring antipasti, sandwiches, and gelato, according to a release.

Helmed by chef and operator Nick Intonti, the kitchen goes heavy on the carbs. Crisp pane tostato (or toast) anchors the menu topped with ingredients like a garbanzo bean dip, cured zucchini with mint and lemon, whipped salt cod and kalamata olives, and a rework of the familiar PB&J with pine nut butter, dried fig compote, and roasted garlic. As ever, the restaurateur’s irreverent sense of humor is on display with a Calabrian sausage and gorgonzola toast that asks What’s ‘Nduja?

The house bread program, the work of pastry chef Derrick Flynn, is also highlighted in piadina (flatbread sandwiches), capped with plucky pairings like mushroom and Marsala, prosciutto and mozzarella, and salami and Stracchino — an Italian cow’s milk cheese. More Americanized sandwiches, served on focaccia or rolls, are mostly meaty, but tuna with hot peppers and lemony vegetables take care of pescavores and vegetarians.

Appetizers like chilled shrimp with Genovese pesto (the traditional basil kind), pickled cherry peppers with pinwheels of mortadella and provolone, and sardines with salsa verde served with Ritz crackers make sociable snacks. And a specials' board supplements the main fare with daily creations.

Rounding off the menu is a trio of salads — one intriguingly drizzled with truffle honey — pastries, and gelato. While the release did not specify the flavors, at least one appears to be coconut sorbet, the unexpected ingredient in a tropical cocktail using two Plantation rums, pineapple, lime, and Prosecco, noddingly named Dolce Vita.

The rest of Tober’s drink program celebrates the sweet life with Italian mainstays like spritzes; Negronis; a Garibaldi with “fluffy” orange juice; and Campari and soda, here served frozen. Ever winking, Tober also presents a take on the much-maligned espresso martini, which includes Reyka vodka amped up with Hoodoo coffee liqueur and brewed espresso, sourced from a collaboration with Matthew Bolick of Wright Bros. Brew & Brew and Rainey Street's new Little Brother bar.

Speaking of Campari, the classic aperitivo was the inspiration behind the minimalist design. Sanders Architecture, the designers behind downtown’s Moody Theater and Juniper, referenced the spirit in a row of ruby bottles lining the top shelf of the bar and a scattering of navy blue accents throughout the flexible indoor-outdoor space. Even the gold of the twist top receives its due in a brass-accented chandelier.

Guests can marvel at the decor’s cleverness for themselves on February 4, when Uncle Nicky’s will offer half-priced cocktails all day and a complimentary buffet from 5-7 pm. Once open, regular hours for the restaurant will be 7 am-midnight daily.

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Omakase for Everyone

New South Austin restaurant swims against current of expensive omakase

Photo courtesy of Tancho Sushi

Tancho Sushi keeps things simple.

Austin had no shortage of beautiful sushi restaurants, but a new one at Lantana Place is doing drawing the trend away from the center of the city and sticking a lower price tag on the experience. Tancho Sushi, offering "everyday omakase," is now open at 7415 Southwest Parkway.

The thought of casual omakase feels like a bit of an oxymoron in Austin, where the service style — which tasks the chef with choosing what the diner will eat — is almost synonymous with something fancy and expensive. Factor in the interior design at Tancho, which certainly doesn't look pedestrian, and it's hard to believe it's actually an everyday meal.

But all things considered, these prices seem reasonable: $29 for the lightest dinner option, and capping out at a $59 feast. Lunch is even less expensive, starting at $24.

Tancho Sushi interior The airy space takes advantage of its surroundings outside of the city.Photo courtesy of Tancho Sushi

In some omakase experiences, the chef might factor in a diner's taste, the special ingredients that are available that day, and any number of other factors to determine what hits the table. But at Tancho, these prix fixe options are predetermined, doubtlessly contributing to the more accessible pricing.

The 50-seat restaurant also uses a clever marketing angle to get diners in who aren't necessarily experienced in sushi, or might otherwise be intimidated by letting a chef choose unfamiliar foods. "With thoughtfully curated preset menus, Tancho simplifies the dining experience by eliminating the guesswork so guests can focus on enjoying their meals," a press release announcing the opening says.

The release was sent November 22, but it looks like Tancho has been serving customers in a soft opening capacity for about a month, based on its Google reviews (which are stunningly high for a new restaurant at 4.7 stars).

Offerings at Tancho are simple.Photo courtesy of Tancho Sushi

Although each menu is different, there is a shared arc. All four experiences start with sunomono salad, a cucumber-based dish with red seaweed and sesame. Then there's tuna sashimi with smoked yuzu ponzu and scallions, and the rest depends on what the diner chooses.

Some standout items across the dinner service are sea bream on the light menu; akami (very red meat along the spine of a tuna) on the standard omakase menu; a lobster open hand roll on the rolls-only menu; and a tuna flight on the grand omakase menu.

No menu item is especially complicated. The focus is on doing each ingredient right, including the temperature the fish is served at and even the flavor of house-made soy sauce and ponzu.

“We keep the focus on the ingredients,” said co-founder Brad Van Otterloo in the release. “By stripping away unnecessary flourishes, we allow the quality of our fish to take center stage. This is a Texas-born concept through and through, and we’re proud to contribute to Austin’s growing sushi reputation.”

The open hand rolls are a signature for the restaurant.Photo courtesy of Tancho Sushi

Despite all this talk of omakase, it is possible to order à la carte items: some appetizers, nigiri (sliced fish on top of rice), and rolls. There's also a carefully curated beverage program, which largely focuses on sake. That includes the Kubota Manju or “Ten Thousand Celebrations" ($79), renowned in Japan for its complex layers and smooth mouthfeel.

“As Austin continues to grow, we wanted to introduce a fresh take on the sushi experience,” said Van Otterloo. “We’re here to make sushi approachable for Austinites while honoring the integrity of this cuisine. It’s about creating a space where everyone can discover and enjoy sushi at their own pace – no pressure, no pretense.”

Tancho Sushi exterior This restaurant is meant to be approachable.Image courtesy of Tancho Sushi

Tancho Sushi is located at 7415 Southwest Parkway, Building 4, Suite 300. It's open daily from 11 am to 10 pm, offering both dine-in and takeout. There are no reservations.

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