Austinites seeking out Persian fine dining have one clear choice, but they're only likely to get it once a year. Roya, a pop-up by brothers Amir and Ali Hajimaleki, has gained a glowing reputation for its lavish Nowruz (Persian New Year) celebration, and now it's time for a new era entirely.
The brothers have unveiled a new South Austin cocktail bar called Daisy Lounge, and with it comes news of a monthly version of Roya — hopefully leading to connections with investors and a permanent space for the popular dinner series. The two entities will have similar Persian roots, but are ultimately separate concepts that will diverge when Roya gets its own home.
"There will be an experience aspect of Roya, like: Eat like you would at my house — Chef Amir's house," says Hajimaleki, who moved to Austin from Iran when he was 9 years old. "We want to serve you, because that's how we serve people in Iran."
The multilevel space makes Daisy Lounge extra intimate.Photo courtesy of Shelby Sorrel
Putting on the pop-up dinners was creatively and culturally fulfilling, but challenging. The decor alone was a stressor; Although fresh flowers and Persian rugs were non-negotiable parts of the experience, they were costly to buy or rent. On top of that, hosting the pop-up meant that the brick-and-mortar restaurant — most recently Shortie's Pizza & Grinders, a sister restaurant under Hajimaleki's Silk Road Hospitality group — needed to shut down for the night.
The busyness of Silk Road was part of the reason that Roya has remained a pop-up for so long. The idea was formed in 2019, but opening Keepers and a joint second location for Oasthouse Kitchen + Bar took precedence, and the pandemic didn't help move things along. Plus, Hajimaleki says, such a personal project shouldn't be rushed.
The space is cozy, but chic.Photo courtesy of Shelby Sorrel
"The benefits of it taking this long have been [that] I've been able to figure a lot of things out that I didn't think about five, six years ago ... and some of the connections I've made," he says. "We've always known we would need some investment in this, because this is not a concept we're looking at doing in the outskirts of Austin. And we've never had investors in our business. We just want to be very careful about who it is and and how we're doing it."
Luckily, the two restaurants that slowed Roya down also held the solution: An underutilized part of the building they share at 5701 W. Slaughter Ln. afforded space for Daisy Lounge, envisioned first as a private dining space and later as a speakeasy. (It is tucked away enough that Hajimaleki pauses our phone call to direct a patron on how to enter.) Because it focuses on cocktails, a monthly dinner won't majorly interrupt service. Besides, it's a beautiful space that will stay ready and on-theme for the event.
Daisy looks like a downtown cocktail bar, but its location really dips into the far reaches of South Austin, especially compared to most upscale drinks and dining in town. The high-quality, but still relatively casual Oasthouse and Keepers have already laid the groundwork, but Daisy ramps up the formality. The spotlit space is painted a dark green and decorated with still life paintings, huge bookshelves, cozy seating, and of course, Persian rugs.
Persian literature is treasured and sometimes mystified.Photo courtesy of Shelby Sorrel
"There's certain things that are in here that are like, if you know, you know," says Hajimaleki.
Patrick Nikel, who has worked with multiple Silk Road concepts, developed the bar program for Daisy Lounge, too. Featured drinks alongside the usual classics (plus beers, wines, and mocktails) include The Daisy, with coconut washed gunpowder gin, lemon juice, Cointreau, rich simple syrup, and a lavender rinse; a specialty Old Fashioned with bourbon, Okinawa black sugar, and a house bitters blend; and a Oaxacan Soda with Vida mezcal, lemon juice, ginger, and cucumber and tarragon soda. Hajimaleki teases a black lime daiquiri that's "just incredible."
Even when there's no pop-up, Daisy will feature some small bites including Zeytoon Parvardeh (marinated Castelvetrano olives with walnuts, pomegranate seeds, and herbs), saffron and lemon-seasoned nuts, and chips. Keepers will also send over some small lobster rolls. Pastry chef Dennis Van, who also already works with Silk Road and has won Netflix's Sugar Rush, has developed a dessert menu featuring complex treats like the "Strawberry Leche Tart" with strawberry lychee curd, yuzu pastry cream, and a coconut milk mousse.
Roya will feature more commonly recognized and heartier dishes like Ghormeh Sabzi, tahdig (rice that gets crispy from caramelization at the bottom of the pot), and of course kabob koobideh. But Hajimaleki's Roya dishes have moved away from heavier entrees to lighter tastes so that guests can enjoy and learn about a broader range of Persian foods in one meal.
This "Royal Egg" has a story behind it.Roya/Instagram
Some creative dishes have included kebab-style assorted mushrooms, delicate ice cream sandwiches, and the "Royal Egg," served in its shell as a savory custard, topped with whipped labneh and caviar, and with bread on the side. Hajimaleki developed the latter after hearing a story about the Shah of Iran bringing back caviar from France, and giving it to a chef who didn't quite know how to serve it. He chose to use it as a topping on an egg, and Hajimaleki followed suit.
Although Persian food in Austin tends to be presented as ultra-casual or lumped in with "Mediterranean" cuisine (even though Iran is technically not Mediterranean), Hajimaleki is sticking to the culture that inspired him — and he has a lot to work with.
"From the South to the North of Iran, there's enough things that I can cook and share with people that the spices will be different and the preparations will be different," says Hajimaleki. "That's my focus, so I'm not trying to have this fusion concept. It's just culinary techniques that might be a little different ... but the actual flavors and textures of what it's supposed to be will be [there]. It's going to taste exactly the way it's supposed to taste."
Fancy presentation doesn't fundamentally change Hajimaleki's cooking from his grandmother's.Roya/Instagram
Daisy Lounge is open Thursdays, Fridays, and Saturdays from 5 pm to midnight. Reserve via Tock. Roya pop-ups will happen monthly. More information is available at daisylounge.com and on Instagram.
