Austin Chefs at SXSW

Austin's top chefs dish on the do-it-yourself culinary movement

Indie Chefs Week Foreign and Domestic Ned Elliott

Foreign and Domestic's chef/owner Ned Elliot spoke on the SXSW panel.

Photo by Jeff Scott

A large crowd of food enthusiasts braved the rain and cold wind Saturday to huddle under the tent at The Blackheart and hear Austin chefs Ned Elliott of Foreign and Domestic, Paul Qui of Qui and East Side King, and Rene Ortiz and Laura Sawicki (of soon-to-open Launderette and Angry Bear) banter about the do-it-yourself culinary movement. The SXSW Interactive panel, moderated by Eater Austin Editor Megan McCarron, guided the chefs through a discussion of the advantages and pitfalls of being an independent chef/owner rather than part of a large restaurant group.

"DIY means freedoms and learning your boundaries," said Qui. "Even the freedom to fail. I don't get to just cook anymore. I had to learn about plumbing and permitting."

Sawicki agreed that when she and Ortiz decided to strike out on their own that they had to stretch beyond their culinary talents. "We know everything about the culinary aspect, so the DIY for us was learning the other parts of the business at our pace, on our terms. That's the exciting part for us." Ortiz chimed in with a grin, "Except for the fundraising. And, I will be accepting checks today."

Elliott echoed the surprise of learning all that was involved in being a chef/owner. "When you step out from behind the kitchen, you are like, 'Wait, a chair is $175? Forget it, we're not doing 80 seats.' It became clear for me that my restaurant feel would be minimal and bare-bones so that it could be all about the food."

These chefs take preparing their cooks for that future very seriously, giving them opportunities to get out of the kitchen, and in front of customers. "I make all the cooks learn more than the food," said Qui. "They learn wine service and front-of-house experiences. You have to know the rest of the business, not just as a sous or chef de cuisine."

Sawicki agreed. "We're here to teach our teams first and foremost — teach them how to cook and how to be strong individuals as chefs. Once you become the restaurateur you have to be part of the experience. I don't get to hide in the back anymore."

McCarron asked the panel to describe the pitfalls of the new trend to make everything in house. "If we are going to make it in house, it has to be better than what we can buy," said Ortiz. "Restaurants can make bacalao (salted cod) in house, but I'd rather buy it from someone who has the quality and tradition behind it."

"Or commit to it, which is an investment financially and in time," Qui countered. "We have four or five vinegars we are making in the restaurant, but they aren't good enough yet, so we use them for family meal and learn from them. We'll get them where we want them to be, but for now we eat them."

While there are challenges, all the panelists agreed that the benefits of being a chef/owner outweigh the hardships. "In the end, I want a place where I can go cook my food, my way, six days a week," said Elliott. "It's hard, but it's worth it."

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Taco News

Popular Austin taco truck Con Todo wraps up business after 3 years

contodotacos.com

Con Todo is closed, but Chef Joseph Gomez is looking forward to the future.

A very popular Austin taco trailer at Celis Brewery has suddenly shut its ordering window. Con Todo chef Joseph Gomez made the announcement on his Instagram account, which was previously the business' account.

As Gomez points out in the message, the account predated Con Todo and will survive it, too, under his own name. It's a clear handle for what the chef plans to do: continue his career and the things Con Todo stood for, but not under the Con Todo name or project.

"Sorry for delay on posting but, after much thought, I’ve made the difficult decision to close the doors to Con Todo 😢. This is one of the hardest choices I’ve ever had to make," Gomez wrote. "Con Todo wasn’t just a business — it was my livelihood, my passion, so deeply personal to me. For those of you who know me, you understand how much heart, soul, time, effort I put into it."

Gomez lists several identities and callings he plans to continue expanding: among them, advocacy, cooking, writing, and being "a proud ADHD weirdo."

"My commitment to supporting migrant workers’ rights remains is as strong as ever, and I’ll continue that work through new projects, as I always have," he writes. "You’ve heard me talk about this mission before, and this year is going to be especially important to take a deep dive into it and explore what’s happening on the border towns where I am from. I won’t be quiet about it."

Gomez and Con Todo have garnered acclaim from food industry and media sources including the James Beard Foundation, Texas Monthly, and CultureMap's own Tastemaker Awards; however the chef doesn't seem too concerned with formal praise from the Michelin Guide as he signs off with the snarky Spanish "#michelinmisnalgas." (He had already been using the hashtag for years prior to winning a recommendation from Michelin in November 2024, and the team did attend the ceremony.)

According to Con Todo's website manifesto, cuisine at Con Todo was both deeply personal to Gomez and representative of the Rio Grande Valley (RGV), so it seems likely that Austinites will get to enjoy eats in the same style from Gomez going forward.

"In the mean time, keep an eye out for me doing pop ups, events, talks, panels and a little pot stirring," Gomez writes. "Nos vemos pronto!"

closings tacos food trucks