Life up North

And it's cool up there too: The beauty of Northern Michigan

At Sleeping Bear Dunes National Lakeshore, you are about to embark on the mostintense dune climb of your life.
Photo by Ellie Knaus
CultureMap contributor Ellie Knaus takes a breather.
The view from the bottom of the dunes.
Photo by Ellie Knaus
Northern Michigan has pockets of breathless beauty.
Photo by Ellie Knaus

Good Morning America has voted the Sleeping Bear Dunes National Lakeshore in Michigan the "Most Beautiful Place in America."A little over a week ago, Traverse City, Mich., was featured in the New York Times travel section. It’s great to see Michigan getting some kudos. I spend all year looking forward to my summer pilgrimage Up North: the sandy beaches, the fireworks, the cherry stands, and the sunsets. It’s the bee’s knees. If you are lucky enough to spend a day in Northern Michigan, here are my suggestions.

There are many fantastic restaurants in Traverse City, but if I could pick one breakfast spot, it's Patisserie Amie. The French food is decadent and the décor is cozy. Your day hasn’t started until you sip a Hitch, sweetened espresso with homemade whip cream. Don’t feel guilty about stocking up calorically. You’re about to burn it all off at our next stop: the sand dunes.

A vertical journey

The Sleeping Bear Dunes National Lakeshore covers 35 miles of beach. Its natural beauty will knock the wind out of you. And if that doesn’t, the dune climb will. Park your car at Lookout Point #9, apply sunscreen, and don’t forget your water bottle.You are about to embark on the most intense dune climb of your life.

You might be tempted to walk over to the observation deck to get an overview of your challenge. Don’t. You will see climbers gripping the side of the insanely steep dune, face into sand. It’s not an encouraging sight. If you are in shape, just go for it. Take running leaps down the 450 foot drop to Lake Michigan. It’s exhilarating. It feels like you are flying.

When you reach the bottom, look up. That’s what you have to climb. There aren’t any other options. (I’ve heard you might be able to walk down the beach a few miles to some sort of pick up area, but you aren’t a quitter!) At this point, some climbers wade into Lake Michigan to cool off. I would not advise that. The sand will stick to your wet body on the climb back up. You’ll be like a human swiffer for sand.

The climb is 90% mental. Take it slow and steady. Set mini-goals for yourself, like: I must pass that sunburned guy ahead of me, or, I’ll climb for thirty seconds before I moan and rest. Think up a reward: I’ll have an extra scoop of Moomer’s ice cream tonight. Imagine an army guy yelling at you to get to the top. Think about how good it will feel to brag about the fact that you did this.

You’ll witness powerful moments of camaraderie on this vertical journey: strangers sharing a water bottle, kids encouraging their aggravated mother to take one more step. Perhaps, in the classiest moment in Michigan history, my husband passed two teenage girls clinging to the side of the dune, and overheard this...

Girl #1: Oh no. I have to pee.

Girl #2: Go back down to the water.

Girl #1: I can’t. I’ll never be able to climb back up again.

Girl #2: So, just pee.

Girl #1: On myself?

Girl #2: I won’t tell.

You will feel exhausted and invigorated when you reach the top. Flex your muscles. You are an animal! Now, go to the lookout point and marvel at your accomplishment. You climbed 450 feet of sliding sand!

If you aren’t up for a cardio-induced heart attack, or if you are recovering from an injury, it’s still worth the visit. Chill out on a beach towel. Soak in the views. Admire the sailboats passing by on their way to Mackinac Island.

Dining options

Is that your tummy growling? Get back in the car. Next stop: the Old Mission General Store. This place is a time warp. Scoop candy out of the barrels, order a sandwich, and drive down to the little beach nearby for a picnic. Go for a swim. Fall asleep in the afternoon sunlight.

Now you’ve got a couple options. Explore the wineries on the Peninsula or drive back into Traverse City to shop on Front Street.

At dusk, take a walk down Sixth Street to admire the Victorian mansions. And then, drive over to The Village at Grand Traverse, a re-development of the former Traverse City State Hospital. It’s dinner time at the asylum! Reservations should be made in advance for Trattoria Stella. It’s a farm-to-table restaurant with a mind-blowing wine list. The wait staff are experts in good food and wine, and they are friendly to boot. Ask the staff if they’ve seen ghosts. They have stories. Order drinks and make a toast to your beautiful, action-packed summer day in Northern Michigan.

Patisserie Amie - 237 Lake Ave #200, Traverse City, MI, (231) 922-9645

Link for Directions to the Sleeping Bear Dunes National Lakeshore

Old Mission General Store - 18250 Mission Road, Traverse City, MI (231) 223-4310

Trattoria Stella - 1200 West Eleventh Street, Traverse City, MI (231) 929-8989

Follow Texan Ellie Knaus on Twitter (@ellieinla) and her fun blog: www.ellieinla.com

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San Antonio leads Texas on ending horse-drawn carriage rides by 2030

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Horses will no longer pull carriages on the streets of downtown San Antonio.

San Antonio has pulled off something that the rest of Texas has yet to do, but it didn't come without some contentious conversations. City Council has unanimously voted (with one abstention) to phase out the use of horse-drawn carriages over the next five years. That means by January 1, 2030, there will be none on the streets at all; instead, there will be electric carriages.

These plans have been in the making since 2022 — if not always at the same level of intensity — when District 2 Councilmember Jalen McKee-Rodriguez and District 3 Councilmember Phyllis Viagran wrote up some concerns about the horses' wellbeing. A special session at the end of October 2024 hinted to San Antonians that the end for this practice was neigh — sorry, nigh — and the final vote was made on December 12. In addition to accepting the plan, it extended its timeframe by two years.

The initial proposal included worries about the horses' exposure to traffic and pollution, as well how their presence might exacerbate those issues for the environment at large by slowing traffic. It also raised concerns about the effects of standing or walking on hard surfaces for too long, or spending time in extreme weather.

At the December 12 meeting, San Antonians gave impassioned speeches about animal welfare — both to call attention to the need for better conditions and to defend the reputations and jobs of current horse drivers — but it wasn't the first time the council heard from the public about the issue.

In a prior city survey, 50,476 respondents weighed in. Of those respondents, 51.98 percent said they liked the idea to "Transition horse-drawn carriages to electric carriages and pedicabs and ban horse drawn carriages completely." There were alternative solutions listed, but respondents were less drawn to them.

A cultural divide emerged in the data and continued in the December meeting: some people avoided the carriages because they worried about the treatment of the horses, while others enjoyed them because of their historical echoes and living legacy. Many speakers in favor of the plan used this to form their argument, raising questions about history versus progress.

More tangible objections to the plan hinged on the businesses — specifically five companies — and jobs that would be lost, which was the main factor behind extending the adjustment period.

Discussions about the particulars of the electric vehicles are still to come, as confirmed in the discussion near the end of the meeting. Councilmember Jalen McKee-Rodriguez addressed concerns about what would happen to the horses, mentioning the Brady Hunter Foundation as a future partner in finding them rescue homes.

Some council members also brought up rhetorical questions about animal exploitation by groups like Sea World, the San Antonio Stock Show & Rodeo, military and police forces, and even various groups in the Fiesta parade, although these did not come with a formal motion to pick the issues up.

This decision could have a ripple effect on other Texas cities. Dallas has recently considered a similar ban, but it appears to have stalled; Austin's attempts at a ban have been unsuccessful, but according to the Austin-American Statesman, only one operator is permitted to bring horses downtown. She declines to do so because the long hours are unfair to her and the horses. Houston does have horse-drawn carriages, and there seems to be little conversation about banning them.

Cities like Chicago and Salt Lake City have led the charge in the United States with some of the most prominent successful bans. Other cities around the world with bans include Brussels and Guadalajara, which both switched to electric models. Bans that have been around for years, like Guadalajara's and Prague's, still aren't out of the woods — people are still pushing back on the decision, so it sounds like San Antonio still has much work cut out for it.

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San Antonio leads Texas on ending horse-drawn carriage rides by 2030