Rising TikTok food star Keith Lee finally has an opinion to share on an Austin restaurant. The casual reviewer, who moved to Dallas in 2024, stopped by the Michelin-starred La Barbecue and declared his meal "some of the best barbecue I've ever had in my life, and it's not even close."
Lee posted the review on Sunday, the same weekend of his South by Southwest (SXSW) session called Mastering the Art of Influencer Entrepreneurship. In it, he discussed opportunities and pitfalls in recording content as a career. There was some focus on food, but he also offered some general advice reflecting the more open title.
Of course, the topic of Austin barbecue did some up, and Lee tactfully claimed he hadn't eaten any in Austin — so there was nothing to review. However, the Detroit-born foodie who had just moved from Las Vegas had heard Austin and San Antonio have "amazing barbecue." It looks like trying some of it is a new priority.
"I know Texas people don't play," said Lee, "you not about to get me in trouble."
At La Barbecue, Lee ordered brisket, chopped cheese sausage, and pork ribs for protein, plus spicy garlic pickles, shell macaroni and cheese, and potato bread as sides. He emphasized that the restaurant had already sold out of many menu items, so getting there early is crucial.
@keith_lee125La Barbecue taste test 💕 would you try it ? 💕 #foodcritic @la Barbecue @Shay & Bria
Lee started with the sausage and was immediately won over, dubbing it a "meat pocket" (presumably talking about the snappy casing and discernibly chopped ingredients inside) and focusing on the fresh, housemade taste. He rated the sausage 8.5 out of 10 points.
"Either I'm starving or that's amazing," he said, seeming a bit bewildered.
Lee followed up with the mac and cheese, noting that his standards for this particular dish are high, but he's starting to see how a barbecue restaurant can win a Michelin star. He also noted that it was spicy and rated it 8.6. Similarly to the sausage, he pointed out the freshness of the pickles, but didn't give them a rating.
The ribs easily fell off the bone, and Lee shared that they were much sweeter than he expected. He wished they had a bit more salt, but added barbecue sauce, which seemed to do the trick. Lee gave these the highest rating out of anything he tried, 9.5.
The last thing Lee tried was the brisket, which he said was the first thing he felt needed more seasoning. He could taste the smoke, and didn't mention salt like he did for the rib. Is it possible that Lee just isn't into the Texas tradition of a brisket seasoned only with salt and pepper? He rated it a 7 before adding barbecue sauce, and 8.2 after, reacting to the strong vinegar flavor.
The video's conclusion might confirm for some Austinites that Lee is just getting to know Texas — or at least Central Texas — barbecue.
"Again, I genuinely don't know if this is because it's a Michelin-starred spot or because it's in Austin, Texas," he said, before concluding that La Barbecue ranked among the best he's tried.
Although there's no denying that La Barbecue is a cut above your average barbecue joint, it's normal to have a housemade sausage or pickles, or to get the majority of a meat's seasoning from a very vinegar-heavy sauce. The really celebrated barbecue menus in Austin are those that put interesting twists on their sides, and a great pitmaster is more so one who produces the perfect texture and smoke.
Without undermining the high ranks — which tons of Austinites agree are well-deserved — it would be interesting to hear how the explanation within the review evolves after Lee starts to internalize some of the region's barbecue habits.
In the meantime, expect some Keith Lee fans to be standing in lines at La Barbecue, as they have at smaller places he's helped put on the map. Perhaps those in line can pass the time by watching his South by Southwest talk free on YouTube.
