Cliff Notes
Too soon? Lifetime achievement award to Marc Jacobs signals everything that'swrong with CFDA Fashion Awards
-
Marc Jacobs at his spring 2010 show -
Jacobs' fall collection had a dotted theme that is sure to be copied.Photo by Fernanda Calfal/Getty Images for Mercedes-Benz
I love Marc Jacobs.
His show remains the hottest ticket and the highlight of every fashion week in New York. His over-the-top sets rival a Broadway production of Spiderman and his collections consistently spark the seasons's major trends. When Jacobs showed Lurex for spring, everyone scurried to follow. His dotty fall collection is sure to be widely imitated as well.
But I just don't think he's ready for a lifetime achievement award.
Sure, the 48-year-old designer has been in the fashion business for more than half his life, during which his collections have ranged from controversial (he was fired from Perry Ellis in 1992 a few days after showing a landmark grunge collection) to influential (his dark, gothic fall 2005 collection that referenced T. J. Wilcox, Violet from The Incredibles and Tim Burton is a favorite). In addition to his namesake lines, his work at Louis Vuitton also has the fashion faithful buzzing. His most recent fall collection for the fabled French fashion house — an homage to The Night Porter, the controversial 1974 film about Nazi S&M eroticism — drew some barbs but temporarily diverted the fashion press in Paris from its obsession with John Galliano's dismissal at Dior.
But isn't it too soon to be honored for the work of a lifetime? Even Jacobs seems bemused about receiving the Council of Fashion Designers of America's Geoffrey Beane Lifetime Achievement Award, which will be bestowed upon him at a glittery gala in New York Monday night. (His good friend, director Sofia Coppola, will do the honors.)
"It should have been a half-lifetime award," he is rumored to have remarked after news of the award was announced.
Nevertheless he agreed to accept it and will be at the podium to pick it up. Designers are so vain (and fragile) that I've never heard of one refusing an honor of any kind.
Actually, a better indicator of Jacobs' incredible talents is that he has been nominated once again in the Womenswear Designer of the Year category, which is generally regarded as fashion's highest annual honor. He will vie against "it" designer-of-the-moment Alexander Wang and Proenza Schouler designers Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez. Jacobs has won nine previous CFDA awards, including Womenswear Designer of the Year last year.
His designation for lifetime achievement actually says more about the CFDA Awards than it does about Jacobs. The organization gives out far too many awards every year — a dozen prizes that seem designed more to garner frenzied media attention than honor the truly deserving.
Does Lady Gaga really merit a Fashion Icon Award this early in her career? She'll be honored at this year's awards, too, along with longtime British fashion writer Hilary Alexander, In Style magazine editor Hal Rubenstein, noted fashion photographer Arthur Elgort and Celine designer Phoebe Philo.
Though Philo isn't well known in the United States, her award might be the most entertaining of the night. Kanye West, who has a history of bizarre award show appearances, will be on hand to give her the prize. A big fan of Philo, he rapped about her in his song "Dark Fantasy," ('I'm just a Chi- town [bleep] with a Nas flow, and my bitch in that new Phoebe Philo'). He also wore one of her womenswear blouses while performing at Coachella.
I don't understand why organizers can't present a lifetime fashion achievement award only when it seems truly deserving, even if that's only every few years. Handing out one every year quickly depletes the list of potential honorees, thus leading to quizzical too-early choices such as Jacobs.
However, perhaps it's fitting that Jacobs will get it now as a backlash against him seems to be developing. A recent New York Times article questions whether Jacobs is as influential as the fashion cognoscenti would have one believe. In a 2010 survey of about 600 high-income women by the Luxury Institute, the Marc Jacobs label plummeted to 25th. It ranked 11th in 2009.
"We don't hear as much about Marc Jacobs as we did five or six years ago," youth marketing consultant Irman Zandal told the Times. "With the exception of his fragrances, he is less on people's radar."
Jacobs has never been a hot name in Houston, where his clothes are not perceived to have the aura of Chanel or Oscar de la Renta or the sex appeal of Versace or Roberto Cavalli.
Even so, he will continue to influence the New York fashion faithful even if he's not as white hot elsewhere.
Festival style has evolved over the past few years. Attendees used to dress according to the mood of the festival; now it's about fitting the mood of your favorite headlining artist. Paulina Valencia and Maria Julia showed up to Day One ready to party with Charli XCX. Photo by Kenn Box
Despite the unusual weather, Elena Hobbes managed to make a classic boho outfit work with some practical footwear. Photo by Kenn Box
If you couldn't tell from the first few images, sequins were all over the festival grounds. Caeil Hwang styled herself in an asymmetrical sequined top and some moto boots with a western flare. Photo by Kenn Box
If you remember the 2000s, then you'll remember the Canadian tuxedo was a style staple. Flash forward two decades and it seems to have made its return, now with a more modern and structured fit. Maria Dupont styled herself in her best denim set for the utmost comfort. Photo by Kenn Box
Christian Hatley showed up to Day Two of the festival prepared and stylish. Photo by Kenn Box
Bringing the mid-2020s party girl vibe, Nidhi Kashyap's look is not only trendy but functional.Photo by Kenn Box
Camo and baby pink is always a cute pair! Deanna Harris is throwing it back to the Y2K era with her cropped graphic tank top and mini skirt. Early 2000s meets country chic in this look. Photo by Kenn Box
It's easy to focus on recreational festival-goers' style, but what about those there to work? Photographer Ryder Cavazos showed up to take some photos in style this year. Photo by Kenn Box
ACL Fest fashion has always had a hint of playfulness to it. Kenley Dunawai sported a South Park mini skirt paired with a black tank top. Photo by Kenn Box
Festival-goers don't need to reach out for Coachella and Marfa; Austin has its own sense of style. Luke Bame's camo shorts and fur vest are a prime example of what Austin's youth are wearing currently. Photo by Kenn Box
"Whismy" is a word that's been trending for quite some time now, and it's the perfect one to use for Audrey Dahlkemper's ACL Fest fit, from her printed rain boots to the tulle skirt.Photo by Kenn Box
Neutral tones are here to stay. Sara Chaney rocks a pair of sturdy Doc Martens to help her trek through the muddy grounds.Photo by Kenn Box
Vintage pieces are a staple in Austin. Andrew Silvas was seen sporting a vintage graphic tank and a classic pair of denim pants on Day Three of the festival. Photo by Kenn Box
Carrington Joseph puts a fun twist on the denim trend with her denim vest. Of course, the look isn't complete without her beaded accessories. Photo by Kenn Box
Negin Nekoonam is the effortlessly cool girl in her white dress accessorized with mud.Photo by Kenn Box
The psychedelic rave combo is one of the best subcultures in ACL Fest street style. Jamison Schilling had the defining countercultural look — though it may become mainstream as the festival begins to book more rave-friendly DJs. (And how about that muddy ombré effect?)Photo by Kenn Box
Graphic tees, camo, and Hunter boots formed a combo seen all over the grounds. Hayley Sherman was spotted wearing all three in the most stylish manner. Photo by Kenn Box
Comfort was key this year. Chantel Smith managed to style comfortable pieces into a cohesive and unique look. Photo by Kenn Box
Trucker hats are making big waves in fashion at the moment. Arden Loss is seen wearing an "I Heart Hot Dads" trucker hat paired with a floral babydoll dress. Photo by Kenn Box
The best festival fits make good use of accessories, and Ashley Galvan is the queen of accessorizing. Photo by Kenn Box
For Baylee Tincher and Peter Jones this year, style was about attitude and performance.Photo by Kenn Box
The protective footwear micro-trend will go down in ACL Fest history.Photo by Kenn Box