Dining Picks
Where to eat in February: Lenoirs, Tigers and Joie de Vie, oh my!
This month we welcome a few new not-to-miss spots to the Austin dining scene — and we celebrate a few you may have overlooked.
I have to admit, I was thrilled to hear the words “bake shop” and “beer garden” together in the name of a new resto here in Austin. And with authentic French and German-style breads and pastries from reputable baker David Norman and the skillful talents of chef Andrew Curren, sommelier and veritable beer geek Billy Caruso and the rest of the team from ELM Restaurant Group, there’s really little to be desired from this place.
You can’t go wrong when you blend sharp cheddar and garlic with lager and whip it into a thick spread for a fresh baguette or pretzel.
The pastries are just this side of the real deal that you’d find in France and the pretzels definitely conjure up visions of German vendors along cobblestone streets. But beyond the breads, you’ll find house made charcuterie and delectable sausages, such as the classic German bratwurst, and daily specials, such as a Spanish-style spicy lamb served with chunky Spanish remoulade.
Oh, and there’s beer cheese too. Beer cheese, you ask? Just try it. You can’t go wrong when you blend sharp cheddar and garlic with lager and whip it into a thick spread for a fresh baguette or pretzel.
As for the beer selection, you won’t be disappointed. Caruso has hand selected a long list of American craft beers from Ommegang Hennepin to Anderson Valley Boont Amber. As one of the friendly Easy Tiger servers informed me, “This is a list for beer geeks.”
But while I’m thrilled to tout the blissful food and libation at Easy Tiger, I’m sorry to say that I’m not thrilled too about the location. I understand that side of 6th Street is on its way to revival, and I look forward to seeing that plan achieved, but the transformation hasn’t exactly happened yet; strolling down the street to the smell of urine from the the night before and listening to verbal assaults from morning vagrants on my way to get a coffee and breakfast croissant aren’t my idea of a pleasant start to the day. (Sorry, but as a young, petite-framed female who has been there both at night and early in the morning, it’s a concern for me.)
That being said, what you find inside Easy Tiger makes you forget the general lack of parking and uncomfortable stroll to the swanky new digs. Will it keep me from returning here? Definitely not, but I’m more likely to visit with a friend in tow if it’s at night. And I’ll be sure to get a few sweet treats to go for a dreamy morning breakfast at home the next day.
Recently opened to an eager crowd within the past few weeks, Lenoir has gracefully glided onto Austin’s dining center stage with a powerful lead. Named for the French variation of the native American/Texan Black Spanish grape, Lenoir is perhaps celebrated chef couple Todd Duplechan and Jessica Maher’s play on using a classic French approach to local, seasonal foods. Whether this is the deeper meaning behind the name or not, the truth is Lenoir is a an immediate star.
Walking into the small, unassuming little building on South First Street you find an intriguing black and white color play with a sexy, smoky-blue tone painted on the walls. Bold, low-lit lanterns dangle in a large cluster at the center of the room, over a large community table and and a series of white-washed bistro tables with handmade wooden seats, which circle the remaining perimeter. A petite dining bar is situated against a playful wall adorned with white cabinets that house wine glasses, salt cellars and sundry other items.
There’s a Marie Antoinette-meets-Alice-in-Wonderland feel to this delicious little place that should assure you that great things are in store.
The entire room is swaddled in antique French-style curtains and accents with mix-and-match antique silver place settings and grandma-classic white plates. There’s a Marie Antoinette-meets-Alice-in-Wonderland feel to this delicious little place that should assure you that great things are in store.
And while there's a decidedly whimsical atmosphere to Lenoir, the food is conversely meticulously focused and deliberately crafted.
Employing a different style of service, for a flat fee of $30 guests are asked to make three selections from the three or four choices under the “field,” “sea” or “land” categories of the brief menu. That’s right, three choices from a prix fixe menu for a set fee. But thirty bucks is a paltry fee for the amazing food you get in return.
Case in point: creamy polenta with savory braised brussels sprouts, spicy curry roasted gulf shrimp with velvety kabocha squash and a not-too-sweet brown butter pecan cake with apple butter and a dollop of creme fraiche. Portions are appropriately sized, so you can savor each bite of every dish. And the wine list? Fantastic. It’s economical and diverse, with everything from Spanish Albarino and German Pinot Gris to a Portuguese Tourriga Nacional and Spanish Tempranillo — I would expect nothing less from Mark Sayre, sommelier from Trio at the Four Seasons who consulted on the wine selection.
Lenoir has served a packed house since the day it opened; I’d suggest reservations and if you can. Ask for a seat at the bar, it’s the best in the house.
Max’s Wine Dive isn’t exactly a new kid on the block; it’s had it’s cozy spot at 3rd and San Jacinto for a few years now. And while this Houston transplant draws a steady crowd of people who love soulful Southern comfort food and a fantastic selection of wine, it’s worth a visit for the seasonal menus from Executive Chef Erica Beneke.
On Feb. 12, Max’s will host a special “La Joie de Vie Moulin Rouge” dinner celebrating French cuisine and wine.
Having only been at the helm for a few months (after chef Jean Pierre Lacoste took the reigns of chef over the entire restaurant franchise), Beneke has had two seasons to really hone her skills for rich, layered flavors using the best of what the season has to offer. Her winter menu has a handful of show-stoppers, including “beans ‘n greens,” a cast-iron skillet of soft butter beans and mustard greens simmered in bacon; paper-thin sliced sweet potatoes layered in a sweet and savory gratin with a thick chunk of melted blue cheese on top; and a braised lamb pot pie with roasted root vegetables, fork-tender lamb shank and a silken broth that beckons a simple “oh my Lord” when you take your first bite.
And on Feb. 12, Max’s will host a special “La Joie de Vie Moulin Rouge” dinner celebrating French cuisine and wine with a menu that includes leek and fennel mousse with fried escargot and pickled apple, seared foie gras, wine braised rabbit leg and house made duck confit culminating in a fig and chocolate galette. The wine list will feature an assortment, such as Champagne, Burgundy, Pallus Les Pensees Chinon and Chez Jerome Marsanne/Viognier. You can reserve tickets here.
Mea culpa. That’s the phrase you use when you realize you’ve made a big mistake, and it’s the phrase I choose to use for misjudging the Paggi House as simply one of the best patio Happy Hour spots in the city. My bad for not making the effort to take a step inside and actually dine there for full meal. I’m afraid I may not be the only Austinite to make this mistake, which is why I chose Paggi as one of my top spots for where to eat this month.
While Huselton's work in the kitchen is a winning reason to spend an evening at Paggi House, perhaps the restaurant's most prized secret weapon is the wine list.
With a menu carefully crafted by Chef Ben "Chili" Huselton, the food at Paggi has a modern-American flare using classic French technique. Start with the Wagyu beef carpaccio with tangy mustard and a twice-cooked quail egg. If you're up for salad, you can't go wrong with the colorful red and golden beet carpaccio, but the butter leaf lettuce salad with vanilla vinaigrette and sliced pears is divine.
Among entrees, the espresso rubbed sika (a breed of deer) is lean, yet tender and juicy and served with a sweet and tangy pomegranate jus with a puree of sweet potatoes. For lighter fare, opt for the grouper. Pan sautéed and served with an earthy accompaniment of maitake mushrooms, leeks and shaved black truffles, it's a hearty indulgence without being too heavy. (Try it with the 2008 Jacques Frederic Mugnier Nuit Saint Georges Clos Marechale — a Red Burgundy (Pinot Noir) from France and you can call it a very good day.)
And while Huselton's work in the kitchen is a winning reason to spend an evening at Paggi House, perhaps the restaurant's most prized secret weapon is the wine list. Among the best of the best wine lists in town including Congress restaurant and Trio at the Four Seasons, I vote Paggi’s list among that top tier. You can thank sommelier Chris McFall for that. With a recent meal he paired a beautiful Austrian Leth 2010 Gruner Veltliner, a crisp and minerally 2008 Domaine de Montille Le Cailleret, Puligny-Montrachet Premier Cru (A Chardonnay from the Burgundy region of France) and the aforementioned red Burgundy that could have easily been the peak of the evening’s wine selection. But McFall’s final piece de resistance was a Lebanese Musar Gaston Hocahar Red wine (2003) that tasted like drinking velvet history.
Don’t make the same mistake I did. Make this place a priority if you have a hankering for a special dinner; enjoy a patio Happy Hour here some other time.