grand opening

A new horse in the running: The White Horse brings honky-tonk to Austin's EastSide bar culture

Grand Opening of The White Horse Bar.
The White Horse/Facebook
The White Horse
The White Horse/Facebook

There’s a new honky-tonk horse in the running in Austin’s growing East Side bar scene. Lovable manager of Hole in the Wall, Denis O’Donnell, has moved east, taking up residence at 500 Comal to open The White Horse. A project co-owned by O’Donnell and Nathan Hill, the East Side’s newest bar-slash-music-venue opened on Dec. 9 to droves of excited patrons... even without booze.

Though a liquor license was still hanging in the balance, O’Donnell opened as planned, and thanks to buzz that had been building for weeks, the booze-free grand opening of The White Horse was brimming with support from Austin’s indie country music scene and general music enthusiasts.

Early patrons have already dubbed it the “East Side’s Hole in the Wall,” which provides an accurate caricature of the folks you’ll find there, but not the space itself.

If you’ve spent any time at Hole in the Wall or the other country music mainstays in Austin, you should feel at home at The White Horse. You’ll recognize a few bartenders and you’ll know some bands from Ginny’s or Hole. And the crowd? At least for now, it could be accurately described as Denis O’Donnell’s loyalists.

Denis will be there, too. A welcome site as you walk in, his signature cowboy hat stands tall behind the bar as he introduces himself to and shakes hands with his new patrons, excited to welcome them into his new space.

The White Horse’s space is much more attune to a 70s lounge than any of the “West Side” honky-tonks with which it will be compared. The main room has two pool tables, one long central bar, a corner stage and room for dancing. It’s outfitted with recycled tables and chairs — they could easily come from a nearby Tex-Mex joint — each table topped with a glowing lowboy candle.

The aesthetic is dark, music-driven and accented by old neon signs that have likely hung on the walls for decades when it was just another eastside nightclub.

With its music-driven roots, The White Horse plans to have some of Austin’s best, if overlooked, musicians on stage every night of the week, free of charge. The current lineup features lots of names that are also playing other local haunts: Brennen Leigh, Mike and The Moonpies and Roger Wallace have all played since The Horse got its official liquor license last Wednesday.

However, The White Horse isn't genre-exclusive: It will also feature The Bob Hoffnar Orchestra for a weekly jazz night each Sunday.

And if you happen into the bar before the live music starts each night, you’ll be pleasantly surprised by the jukebox, at least I was. The mix is good, heavy on artists of old who often fly under the radar, like Leon Russell, with some Tejano sprinkled in. I bet there’s a proper nod to ol’ Doug Sahm, too.

With only a week under its belt, The White Horse seems to be running strong, thanks to O’Donnell’s inherent charm and connection to one of Austin’s largest music subcultures. In a sea of indie hangouts, it’s nice to find Austin’s modern honky-tonk scene laying down some new roots on the East Side.

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Omakase for Everyone

New South Austin restaurant swims against current of expensive omakase

Photo courtesy of Tancho Sushi

Tancho Sushi keeps things simple.

Austin had no shortage of beautiful sushi restaurants, but a new one at Lantana Place is doing drawing the trend away from the center of the city and sticking a lower price tag on the experience. Tancho Sushi, offering "everyday omakase," is now open at 7415 Southwest Parkway.

The thought of casual omakase feels like a bit of an oxymoron in Austin, where the service style — which tasks the chef with choosing what the diner will eat — is almost synonymous with something fancy and expensive. Factor in the interior design at Tancho, which certainly doesn't look pedestrian, and it's hard to believe it's actually an everyday meal.

But all things considered, these prices seem reasonable: $29 for the lightest dinner option, and capping out at a $59 feast. Lunch is even less expensive, starting at $24.

Tancho Sushi interior The airy space takes advantage of its surroundings outside of the city.Photo courtesy of Tancho Sushi

In some omakase experiences, the chef might factor in a diner's taste, the special ingredients that are available that day, and any number of other factors to determine what hits the table. But at Tancho, these prix fixe options are predetermined, doubtlessly contributing to the more accessible pricing.

The 50-seat restaurant also uses a clever marketing angle to get diners in who aren't necessarily experienced in sushi, or might otherwise be intimidated by letting a chef choose unfamiliar foods. "With thoughtfully curated preset menus, Tancho simplifies the dining experience by eliminating the guesswork so guests can focus on enjoying their meals," a press release announcing the opening says.

The release was sent November 22, but it looks like Tancho has been serving customers in a soft opening capacity for about a month, based on its Google reviews (which are stunningly high for a new restaurant at 4.7 stars).

Offerings at Tancho are simple.Photo courtesy of Tancho Sushi

Although each menu is different, there is a shared arc. All four experiences start with sunomono salad, a cucumber-based dish with red seaweed and sesame. Then there's tuna sashimi with smoked yuzu ponzu and scallions, and the rest depends on what the diner chooses.

Some standout items across the dinner service are sea bream on the light menu; akami (very red meat along the spine of a tuna) on the standard omakase menu; a lobster open hand roll on the rolls-only menu; and a tuna flight on the grand omakase menu.

No menu item is especially complicated. The focus is on doing each ingredient right, including the temperature the fish is served at and even the flavor of house-made soy sauce and ponzu.

“We keep the focus on the ingredients,” said co-founder Brad Van Otterloo in the release. “By stripping away unnecessary flourishes, we allow the quality of our fish to take center stage. This is a Texas-born concept through and through, and we’re proud to contribute to Austin’s growing sushi reputation.”

The open hand rolls are a signature for the restaurant.Photo courtesy of Tancho Sushi

Despite all this talk of omakase, it is possible to order à la carte items: some appetizers, nigiri (sliced fish on top of rice), and rolls. There's also a carefully curated beverage program, which largely focuses on sake. That includes the Kubota Manju or “Ten Thousand Celebrations" ($79), renowned in Japan for its complex layers and smooth mouthfeel.

“As Austin continues to grow, we wanted to introduce a fresh take on the sushi experience,” said Van Otterloo. “We’re here to make sushi approachable for Austinites while honoring the integrity of this cuisine. It’s about creating a space where everyone can discover and enjoy sushi at their own pace – no pressure, no pretense.”

Tancho Sushi exterior This restaurant is meant to be approachable.Image courtesy of Tancho Sushi

Tancho Sushi is located at 7415 Southwest Parkway, Building 4, Suite 300. It's open daily from 11 am to 10 pm, offering both dine-in and takeout. There are no reservations.

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