Este of Eden

Suerte team sets open date for eagerly awaited East Austin seafood restaurant

Este has an official opening date: October 3.

Courtesy of Este

Suerte super fans, rejoice: The team behind the award-winning restaurant has finally set an opening date for the second concept, Este. Celebrating coastal Mexican cuisine, the much-anticipated East Austin establishment will open on October 3.

Owner Sam Hellman-Mass and 2021 Food & Wine Best New Chef Fermín Núñez are the dynamic duo behind the operation.

“I feel very grateful for the opportunity to create another beloved restaurant in one of Austin’s most iconic properties,” said owner Sam Hellman-Mass. “This project is truly a dream. The past few years have been challenging for everyone in the restaurant industry. I do not take for granted that our team is so fortunate to do what we love and put our hearts and all of our passion into Este. It is going to be a delicious place to dine and a lot of fun.”

Where Suerte focuses on interior Mexican cuisine, Este will transport Austin diners to the coast with fresh seafood sourced from close relationships with premier fishmongers. Think: oysters, ceviches, aguachiles, fried fish tacos, and more.

“Suerte is all about our masa and the story we tell with it,” said executive chef Fermín Núñez. "Este will focus on the canvas of heirloom corn masa and cooking seafood with a Mexican point of view. When I think of mariscos, I think of the many delicious raw dishes as well as the timeless tradition of grilling beautiful fish and shellfish on the beach over a hot charcoal fire. I am not only looking forward to cooking this way at Este but also having that be a place where I get to eat on my days off.”

And you won't have to leave the turf behind when you dive into the surf, thanks to items like the cast iron-seared T-bone steak, seasonal vegetables, and other inland dishes. The dessert menu will feature the handiwork of Suerte pastry chef Derrick Flynn.

To complement the charcoal cooking and regional flavors of the menu, general manager Celia Pellegrini's curated wine list will pull influences from coastal regions throughout the world as well as Champagne and other seafood-friendly wines. Bar manager Patrick Wasetis' beverage program will likewise feature vibrant coastal-inspired cocktails and signature margaritas.

Located at 2113 Manor Rd., Este will occupy the iconic 1920s bungalow formerly home to Eastside Cafe. The Suerte team updated and rebuilt the bungalow, revitalizing the onsite garden to grow local vegetables and adding birdhouses for migratory purple martins as well as beehives for pollinating the crops.

Much like Suerte, the team drew inspiration for the restaurant's bright interior dining spaces during travels around Mexico. While developing the concept, Núñez and Hellman-Mass explored coastal cities including Ensenada, Valle de Guadalupe, Tijuana, Puerto Escondido, Tampico, and Merida. Design elements reflecting these trips include natural materials, artisan decor, and a spacious outdoor deck to bring the ambiance of an amazing seaside meal to East Austin.The team also worked in collaboration with local architect Matt Garcia and José Noé Suro, mastermind behind Mexico’s leading ceramic studio, Cerámica Suro, to create a tile representing the waves and sand dunes of the Mexican coastline.

In total, Este can seat 80 in the main dining room, with eight additional seats at the bar and six seats at the chef counter. Open for dinner Sunday through Thursday from 5 pm to 10 pm and Friday and Saturday 5 pm to 11 pm, the restaurant will announce lunch service, happy hours, and private dining options in future. In the meantime, visit esteatx.com to make reservations.

Omakase for Everyone

New South Austin restaurant swims against current of expensive omakase

Photo courtesy of Tancho Sushi

Tancho Sushi keeps things simple.

Austin had no shortage of beautiful sushi restaurants, but a new one at Lantana Place is doing drawing the trend away from the center of the city and sticking a lower price tag on the experience. Tancho Sushi, offering "everyday omakase," is now open at 7415 Southwest Parkway.

The thought of casual omakase feels like a bit of an oxymoron in Austin, where the service style — which tasks the chef with choosing what the diner will eat — is almost synonymous with something fancy and expensive. Factor in the interior design at Tancho, which certainly doesn't look pedestrian, and it's hard to believe it's actually an everyday meal.

But all things considered, these prices seem reasonable: $29 for the lightest dinner option, and capping out at a $59 feast. Lunch is even less expensive, starting at $24.

Tancho Sushi interior The airy space takes advantage of its surroundings outside of the city.Photo courtesy of Tancho Sushi

In some omakase experiences, the chef might factor in a diner's taste, the special ingredients that are available that day, and any number of other factors to determine what hits the table. But at Tancho, these prix fixe options are predetermined, doubtlessly contributing to the more accessible pricing.

The 50-seat restaurant also uses a clever marketing angle to get diners in who aren't necessarily experienced in sushi, or might otherwise be intimidated by letting a chef choose unfamiliar foods. "With thoughtfully curated preset menus, Tancho simplifies the dining experience by eliminating the guesswork so guests can focus on enjoying their meals," a press release announcing the opening says.

The release was sent November 22, but it looks like Tancho has been serving customers in a soft opening capacity for about a month, based on its Google reviews (which are stunningly high for a new restaurant at 4.7 stars).

Offerings at Tancho are simple.Photo courtesy of Tancho Sushi

Although each menu is different, there is a shared arc. All four experiences start with sunomono salad, a cucumber-based dish with red seaweed and sesame. Then there's tuna sashimi with smoked yuzu ponzu and scallions, and the rest depends on what the diner chooses.

Some standout items across the dinner service are sea bream on the light menu; akami (very red meat along the spine of a tuna) on the standard omakase menu; a lobster open hand roll on the rolls-only menu; and a tuna flight on the grand omakase menu.

No menu item is especially complicated. The focus is on doing each ingredient right, including the temperature the fish is served at and even the flavor of house-made soy sauce and ponzu.

“We keep the focus on the ingredients,” said co-founder Brad Van Otterloo in the release. “By stripping away unnecessary flourishes, we allow the quality of our fish to take center stage. This is a Texas-born concept through and through, and we’re proud to contribute to Austin’s growing sushi reputation.”

The open hand rolls are a signature for the restaurant.Photo courtesy of Tancho Sushi

Despite all this talk of omakase, it is possible to order à la carte items: some appetizers, nigiri (sliced fish on top of rice), and rolls. There's also a carefully curated beverage program, which largely focuses on sake. That includes the Kubota Manju or “Ten Thousand Celebrations" ($79), renowned in Japan for its complex layers and smooth mouthfeel.

“As Austin continues to grow, we wanted to introduce a fresh take on the sushi experience,” said Van Otterloo. “We’re here to make sushi approachable for Austinites while honoring the integrity of this cuisine. It’s about creating a space where everyone can discover and enjoy sushi at their own pace – no pressure, no pretense.”

Tancho Sushi exterior This restaurant is meant to be approachable.Image courtesy of Tancho Sushi

Tancho Sushi is located at 7415 Southwest Parkway, Building 4, Suite 300. It's open daily from 11 am to 10 pm, offering both dine-in and takeout. There are no reservations.