TACO THE TOWN
Austin taco truck nabs spot on New York Times best dishes of 2024 list
A trio of tacos at Paprika, including the famous suadero.
Pity (or perhaps envy) the New York Times food staff. Covering the Big Apple's restaurant scene is difficult enough, but the Gray Lady also chronicles the nation. This time their praise fell on Austin taco truck Paprika's saudero taco, as one of their favorite dishes of the year.
The editors and critics sample hundreds of dishes every month, so when an Austin dish blips on the radar, one can be assured it is truly extraordinary.
On December 17, the venerable publication released its list, "The 26 Best Dishes We Ate Across the U.S. in 2024". Ranking involved a trek through more than 30 states, including surprising cities like Stanley, Idaho. Texas nabbed three spots on the annual round-up, including Paprika.
Priya Krishna, one of the New York Times' two interim food critics, praised the food truck's freshly made salsas and the ever-friendly demeanor of owner Margarito Perez, but saved the biggest compliments for the brisket.
"This is brisket boosted to another level — crisp-edged meat rendered extra beefy from cooking in its own fat, swaddled in a nixtamalized tortilla," she wrote.
The kudos continue a winning streak from the food truck, which temporarily shuttered in July following administrative headaches with the Austin Public Health Department. It was back in action by August, but only after missing out on being included in Texas Monthly's 50 Best Tacos in Texas list. In November, taco editor José Ralat offered a glowing consolation prize.
It seems media attention is both a blessing and a curse for Paprika. The same day the New York Times article was released, the concept reported water tank damage at its 6519 North Lamar Blvd. food truck. While repairs are made, the saudero taco can still be found for dinner at Paprika's Long Play Lounge pop-up.
Besides Paprika's taco, two Houston dishes impressed the New York Times crew this year — horchata Berlinesa at Ema andgoat chops at Aga's. Although Little Sparrow's French onion soup originated in Atlanta, guests can order it at Houston's State of Grace.
