Best of New BBQ
3 Austin spots make Southern Living's best new barbecue list
Two Goose Market & Barbecue was No. 2 on Southern Living's list.
Lifestyle magazine Southern Living chooses its picks for best new barbecue joints every two years, and three Austin spots have made the new edition of the list — with high rankings. Two Goose Market & Barbecue (No. 2 of 16), Churchrow Tejas BBQ (No. 4), and Parish Barbecue (No. 8) made the cut in Austin, and one more in Irving, Kafi BBQ (No. 7), was the only other Texas spot on the list.
Contributing barbecue editor Robert F. Moss determined Southern Living's rankings and wrote a paragraph introducing each spot. Even though Southern Living represents the entire South, Moss pointed out in his introduction that Texas-style barbecue is "blurring" the lines between other regional styles.
"These days, offset smokers have become standard equipment at new restaurants in Florida, Georgia, and the Carolinas," wrote Moss. "Slow-smoked brisket and house-made sausage links have gone native, appearing side-by-side with chopped pork, mustard or vinegar sauces, and regional specialties like red slaw, Brunswick stew, and hash and rice."
He also names food truck and pop-ups as "fertile incubators for barbecue restaurateurs," and sure enough, two of the three Austin picks are located (at least partially) in trailers: Two Goose and Parish. Churchrow and Kafi are both in brick-and-mortar spaces.
At Two Goose Market & Barbecue, Moss specifically praised the breakfast tacos, describing them as "compact bites of soft, pliant flour tortillas bursting with the smoky flavor of brisket (or sausage or bacon) along with eggs, soft home-fried potatoes, and gooey melted Cheddar." He also liked the more traditional side of the menu, and gave credit for departures like a pork belly banh mi and a cheesesteak.
Another spot that blends Texan and Mexican traditions, Churchrow Tejas BBQ, caught the writer's attention for its expansive menu with "almost too many tempting options." Instead of reviewing any one menu item, he laid out a selection of options, including meat by the pound, smoked mollejas (beef sweetbreads), brisket queso, La Valentina brisket taco, and La Tejanita with chopped chicken thighs and roasted poblano, plus a full bar with local beers.
Parish Barbecue is the standout in Austin in terms of unexpected flavors, since everything it does is touched by Cajun cooking. Moss especially liked the pulled dug legs, which he recommended pairing with "zippy remoulade-vinegar slaw and herb-laced Creole tomato salad." He also commended the boudin (sausage), which comes in rotating flavors.
At Kafi BBQ in Irving, a suburb of Dallas, halal Wagyu beef is king. Moss appreciated touches like pomegranate-glazed beef belly burnt ends, lamb spareribs, and Iraqi spices. "Of equal note are the crisp, thick-cut French fries, which are cooked in beef tallow (Wagyu, of course)," he writes, "and you can finish things off with cardamom-scented banana pudding or the basbousa, a rich rosewater-laced coconut semolina cake."
If Texans are willing to take a trip based on advice from Southern Living, they should head to Elliott’s BBQ Lounge in Florence, South Carolina, which took the No. 1 spot. Pork is a big deal at Elliott's, including a whole-hog barbecue that Moss calls "superlative."
