Over the last few years, something shifted in the wine world. Suddenly, what once was wheezing in rarified air was able to finally exhale. Restaurants and bars across Austin let go of the gatekeeping that made vino seem more philosophical than fun.
That's not to say that the nominees for the Tastemaker Award for Wine Program of the Year don't know their stuff. Each is happy to nerd out about a varietal's body, fruit, and finish. But they are just as excited to sell guests a juicy patio pounder for whiling the day away.
Whether one chooses to chug or savor, that's something to celebrate. Join us in raising a glass to our city's standard-bearers below, then pop open the bubbly as we crown the winners at Fair Market on May 11. Early Bird tickets are on sale now.
APT 115
In a social media-obsessed Austin, APT 115 owner Joe Pannenbacker has somehow revived the lost art of the hang. Lounge and gossip with friends in the corner, or sit at the bar to chat with the staff. Either way, the experience feels like a magical impromptu house party. The conversation, of course, is animated by a hand-selected array of small production and low-intervention wines.
Bufalina
This acclaimed pizza joint has always put as much work into its wine list as its Neapolitan pies. In the early days, it miraculously squeezed 400 bottles into its tiny former East Austin space. These days, it brings wine to the masses through its monthly wine club, whose members get special discounts, pizza pairings, and witty tasting notes from wine director Rania Zayyat.
Dong Nai
While some of its fellow nominees dazzle with comprehensive wine lists, this strip mall gem keeps it simple. That's perfect, of course, for a spot specializing in Vietnamese comfort food. The selections — honing in mostly on acidic whites and medium-bodied reds — let the complex flavors of the cuisine shine. A sturdy sake list adds to the appeal.
Este
A seafood restaurant has its share of pairing challenges — ones this East Austin hot spot has solved by heavily investing in the fresh and bright. Still, this wine program doesn't use crutches. Along with crisp whites and zingy reds, there's a library of flavor profiles explained with matter-of-fact language. And keeping with the fine dining spirit, there's a list of "tesoros," treasures to be relished during a truly memorable experience.
Golden Hour
Sure, one can't judge a wine from its label. Still, one can't help but marvel at the artwork on display at this South Austin hot spot. A spacey print takes off on Subject to Change's Lune Juice, a minimalist doodle speckles Broc Cellars' Love Rosé, and a cartoon beefs up Mas Coutelou's Matubu. The curated selection isn't just for show, of course, but it's still lovely to drink with your eyes.
Suerte
This contemporary Mexican eatery has received tons of fanfare for its spirits program, starring nuanced tequilas and mezcals. But its wine list deserves its own meet-and-greet. The globe-trotting menu stands up to the assertive flavors coming from the kitchen. Try one of the skin-contact wines with earthy refried lentils or a Chilean Sauvignon Blanc with carnitas.
Wine For the People
Winemaker Rae Wilson first made Austin blush with the wonderfully sippable Dandy Rosé. Now, she has a proper tasting room to showcase the full breadth of her skill. Her wines are a sharp rejoinder to those who have traditionally poo-pooed the idea of Texas-grown grapes. The La Valentía line pairs finely with the most elegant celebrations, while Dandy remains the standard for the everyday table.
