It's nice to see Ralph Lauren back in the saddle again. The master designer, whose hand-picked CEO recently announced he was leaving the company over creative differences, created a masterful runway show in his Madison Avenue store during the end of New York Fashion Week, with a fall collection that evoked the glamour of the legendary brand.
It was rumored that Lauren had hoped to hold the show at the New York Botanical Garden. Instead, he decided to create a secret garden of his own that was every bit as spectacular as the real thing.
Every wall on the first and second floor of the 19th century mansion-turned-retail-emporium was covered in white orchids — more than 100,000 were flown in from around the world, and the fragrant smell was almost overwhelming — along with air plants and desert agave intertwined with vines and moss, and dotted with faux butterflies with flapping wings.
When the show began, models wound their way from the second floor down a marble staircase in front of a select crowd that included prime customers, favored retailers, and celebrities like Jessica Biel and Bollywood star Deepika Padukone.
The lush surroundings evoked fashion week's better times, when such over-the-top shows were common. This go-around, only the La Perla runway show, which featured a faux stone manor with vignettes of models in each room, came anywhere close to Lauren's amazing setting.
The collection matched the surroundings, with luxe styles ranging from creme-colored safari-like daywear and distressed leather jackets accented with sculpted jewelry to fluid silk gowns in purple, green, and a ruby paisley pattern. A hint of wanderlust pervaded the collection, which Lauren said was inspired by "a nomadic spirit; an exotic sophistication contrasting pure shapes with rustic textures; shades of the desert and burnished gold; and artful, one-of-a-kind jewelry.
"It embodies the spirit of the woman I design for, always seeking a style that is bold and personal," he explained.
While many of the styles reflect Lauren's uptown spirit, there was more a downtown vibe in the closing look, as Argentinean model Mica Arganaraz wore a mutli-floral lame evening gown, unbuttoned from the waist down and worn over a pair of ripped jeans.
At the end of the show, the 77-year Lauren took his customary runway bow, entering from an elevator rather than taking the stairs, and moving slowly as he acknowledged the audience. But there seemed to be a satisfied sparkle in his eyes.
The collection can be purchased immediately at flagship Ralph Lauren stores and on RalphLauren.com as the brand has embraced a "see it now, buy it now" philosophy.
Ralph Lauren orange multi kashmir lame evening gown.
DIIV's set was moody, but propulsive thanks to strong bass lines.Photo by Brianna Caleri
Zachary Cole Smith can always be counted on for a nostalgic 'fit.Photo by Brianna Caleri
Starcleaner Reunion singer Jo Roman keeps the beat.Photo by Brianna Caleri
From the looks of it, no one had a better time onstage than Wayne Coyne, frontman of the Flaming Lips.Photo by Brianna Caleri
The tinsel whip was one of many props.Photo by Brianna Caleri
The Flaming Lips are known for touring with huge inflatables.Photo by Brianna Caleri
A joyful crowd reacts to being blasted with confetti during the Flaming Lips' set.Photo by Brianna Caleri
Ty Segall was king of the guitar jams.Photo by Brianna Caleri
Segall's painted jeans were probably the most unique fashion statement all weekend.Photo by Brianna Caleri
The Psych Fest uniform: Earthy shorts and calf tattoos.Photo by Brianna Caleri
Thomas Attar Bellier of Al-Qasar plays a beautifully adorned electric saz.Photo by Brianna Caleri
The more mics, the better for Al-Qasar.Photo by Brianna Caleri
A closer look at the saz.Photo by Brianna Caleri
Lyrics in Arabic brought extra gravitas to the set.Photo by Brianna Caleri
How's that for a desert hallucination?Photo by Brianna Caleri
New Candys guitarist Emanuele Zanardo puts a physical flourish in his playing.Photo by Brianna Caleri
A portal opens...Photo by Brianna Caleri
The Black Angels interrupted the technicolor parade for a largely black-and-white set.Photo by Brianna Caleri
Black Angels bassist Misti Hamrick-French basks in the cold glow of a strobe light.Photo by Brianna Caleri
Dumbo Gets Mad reminds us that Italians just get fashion.Photo by Brianna Caleri
Guitarist Luca Bergomi gets in on bassist Ivan Torelli's shot.Photo by Brianna Caleri
LA LOM bassist Jake Faulkner captures the sun.Photo by Brianna Caleri
Guitarist Zac Sokolow danced for the whole set, which happened to be on his birthday.Photo by Brianna Caleri
Faulkner's grandstanding added flavor to the show, which ultimately didn't need psychedelic visuals.Photo by Brianna Caleri
Faulkner's howls cut through the air, hardly amplified.Photo by Brianna Caleri
Trish Toledo paid homage to mothers and couples in her romantic set.Photo by Brianna Caleri
Not a practical shoe for a rainy weekend. We salute her sacrifice for fashion.Photo by Brianna Caleri
Thee Sacred Souls closed out the festival with a brass section.Photo by Brianna Caleri
This backup singer was exquisitely styled in blue.Photo by Brianna Caleri
Singer Josh Lane snapped a photo of an adoring audience. See you next time, Josh.Photo by Brianna Caleri