A chef with a pedigree that includes Emmer & Rye in Texas and Momofuku Ssam in New York is opening a counter-service Italian restaurant, Umarell, in Hyde Park at 4413 Guadalupe St. The team is targeting Tuesday, February 3, for the opening.

Umarell will be a counter-service Italian restaurant from Mike Graffeo, whose local resume includes chef de cuisine at Emmer & Rye’s Ladino in San Antonio and Vespaio in Austin. Expect a variety of casual Italian dishes, though Graffeo warned in a phone interview there will be “too many fried items to truly be a red-sauce place.”

Menu highlights include End Piece Lasagna — baked lasagna cut into strips, fried in garlic oil, and served in arrabbiata sauce — as well as fontina-stuffed meatballs, buffalo chicken dip ravioli, and chicken wings. Graffeo is particularly excited about an Italian hot dog, made with a pizza roll bun slathered in mustard and topped with bell peppers, onions, garlic, potatoes, and ketchup. Drinks-wise, Graffeo is working on a beer and wine permit and hopes to serve a full bar later.

This Italian joint goes straight for comfort.Photo courtesy of Umarell

After three years at high-budget Ladino, Graffeo wanted to open a restaurant like the ones he grew up with in New Jersey, where he can get to know the regulars and see families grow up. Graffeo says his goal is to be “egregiously fair-priced,” with the most expensive menu item coming in at $26. The vibe of the restaurant matches the casual, old-school Italian fare, with checkered tablecloths, big booths, and Tiffany lights overhead.

Photo courtesy of Umarell

Umarell will serve fontina-stuffed meatballs, crispy lasagne, and more in the former Wok ‘N Express.

Graffeo’s business partner in the restaurant is Mo Pittle of Jewboy Burgers and his chef de cuisine (and, with the small team, partner in construction) is Matthew Toader, another Emmer & Rye alum. Pittle came up with the name Umarell, which refers to old retired Italian men who spend their time watching construction sites and offering tips to the workers. Graffeo likes that the name sounds professional, but isn’t when you know what it means.

An introspective team photo of the Umarell crew.Photo courtesy of Umarell

Umarell is replacing Wok N Express, a Chinese restaurant opened by Tang and Cindy Tran in 2012. The Trans, who own the building, decided to retire in October 2025, and are renting the space to Umarell.