AUF WIEDERSEHEN, Y’ALL

Charming Tarrytown restaurant and critical darling closing after 12 years

Fabi + Rosi will close permanently next week.

In a depressing year of restaurant closures, another Austin eatery is saying auf Wiedersehen for good.

Fabi + Rosi, the charming European-inspired restaurant helmed by German-born chef Wolfgang Murbe and his wife, native Austinite Cassie Williamson, issued a statement on Thursday, December 10, that the restaurant would close permanently after 12 years.

“The time has come for us to say goodbye,” the email reads. “To those of you who have worked beside us, dined with us and celebrated with us, thank you. From the bottom of our hearts, we thank you. Because of you, not only did this little dream of ours come true, it expanded into much, much more than the two of us could have ever imagined 12 years ago. It has truly been an honor for Wolfgang and I to be part of your lives through very special weddings, proposals, first dates, and neighbors near and far that have made us ‘your place.’ We hope our paths cross another time in another place.”

Tucked away in a century-old house in Tarrytown, Fabi + Rosi, was a critical darling, garnering many accolades in its time (including numerous nominations for the CultureMap Tastemaker Awards). Despite its relatively low profile, it has been a favorite of the local food scene since opening in 2009, in part for Murbe’s modern twist on classic European cuisine, in part for its irresistibly enchanting ambiance, and, truth be told, in part because Austinites couldn’t get enough of the couple’s endearing love story. The pair met when Murbe was working as a chef on a friend’s yacht in Spain and had hopes of one day opening his own eatery. The two fell in love, settled back in Williamson’s hometown, and the rest is Austin food history.

Though it’s unclear whether the Fabi + Rosi closing is solely brought on by the pandemic, the implications are that 2020 has not been kind to the restaurant. It closed early in the pandemic but reopened for curbside-pickup service in late May, and even opened its much-anticipated biergarten in July. Sadly, it doesn’t seem to have been enough to keep the sweetheart spot afloat — and locals loyal to Fabi + Rosi are taking to social media to express their heartbreak over the closure, with many recounting the special occasions celebrated there throughout the years.

While it is the end of an era for the Tarrytown staple, Austinites can still support the restaurant in its final days, as Fabi + Rosi will continue to take online orders and offer curbside pickup through next week.

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Omakase for Everyone

New South Austin restaurant swims against current of expensive omakase

Photo courtesy of Tancho Sushi

Tancho Sushi keeps things simple.

Austin had no shortage of beautiful sushi restaurants, but a new one at Lantana Place is doing drawing the trend away from the center of the city and sticking a lower price tag on the experience. Tancho Sushi, offering "everyday omakase," is now open at 7415 Southwest Parkway.

The thought of casual omakase feels like a bit of an oxymoron in Austin, where the service style — which tasks the chef with choosing what the diner will eat — is almost synonymous with something fancy and expensive. Factor in the interior design at Tancho, which certainly doesn't look pedestrian, and it's hard to believe it's actually an everyday meal.

But all things considered, these prices seem reasonable: $29 for the lightest dinner option, and capping out at a $59 feast. Lunch is even less expensive, starting at $24.

Tancho Sushi interior The airy space takes advantage of its surroundings outside of the city.Photo courtesy of Tancho Sushi

In some omakase experiences, the chef might factor in a diner's taste, the special ingredients that are available that day, and any number of other factors to determine what hits the table. But at Tancho, these prix fixe options are predetermined, doubtlessly contributing to the more accessible pricing.

The 50-seat restaurant also uses a clever marketing angle to get diners in who aren't necessarily experienced in sushi, or might otherwise be intimidated by letting a chef choose unfamiliar foods. "With thoughtfully curated preset menus, Tancho simplifies the dining experience by eliminating the guesswork so guests can focus on enjoying their meals," a press release announcing the opening says.

The release was sent November 22, but it looks like Tancho has been serving customers in a soft opening capacity for about a month, based on its Google reviews (which are stunningly high for a new restaurant at 4.7 stars).

Offerings at Tancho are simple.Photo courtesy of Tancho Sushi

Although each menu is different, there is a shared arc. All four experiences start with sunomono salad, a cucumber-based dish with red seaweed and sesame. Then there's tuna sashimi with smoked yuzu ponzu and scallions, and the rest depends on what the diner chooses.

Some standout items across the dinner service are sea bream on the light menu; akami (very red meat along the spine of a tuna) on the standard omakase menu; a lobster open hand roll on the rolls-only menu; and a tuna flight on the grand omakase menu.

No menu item is especially complicated. The focus is on doing each ingredient right, including the temperature the fish is served at and even the flavor of house-made soy sauce and ponzu.

“We keep the focus on the ingredients,” said co-founder Brad Van Otterloo in the release. “By stripping away unnecessary flourishes, we allow the quality of our fish to take center stage. This is a Texas-born concept through and through, and we’re proud to contribute to Austin’s growing sushi reputation.”

The open hand rolls are a signature for the restaurant.Photo courtesy of Tancho Sushi

Despite all this talk of omakase, it is possible to order à la carte items: some appetizers, nigiri (sliced fish on top of rice), and rolls. There's also a carefully curated beverage program, which largely focuses on sake. That includes the Kubota Manju or “Ten Thousand Celebrations" ($79), renowned in Japan for its complex layers and smooth mouthfeel.

“As Austin continues to grow, we wanted to introduce a fresh take on the sushi experience,” said Van Otterloo. “We’re here to make sushi approachable for Austinites while honoring the integrity of this cuisine. It’s about creating a space where everyone can discover and enjoy sushi at their own pace – no pressure, no pretense.”

Tancho Sushi exterior This restaurant is meant to be approachable.Image courtesy of Tancho Sushi

Tancho Sushi is located at 7415 Southwest Parkway, Building 4, Suite 300. It's open daily from 11 am to 10 pm, offering both dine-in and takeout. There are no reservations.

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