BBQ comeback
Ex-Valentina's owner returns to smoking meats at new Austin restaurant
Churchrow Tejas BBQ will use the smokers left behind by Black Gold Craft Meats & Cocktails.
A new barbecue joint in Austin will unify two important local restaurant figures in one new concept. Simon Madera, who owns the "cantina" La Holly and Taco Flats is opening Churchrow Tejas BBQ with Miguel Vidal, the former owner of Valentina's Tex-Mex BBQ. The restaurant is set to open sometime this fall in the space that formerly housed Black Gold Craft Meats & Cocktails (1521 W. Anderson Ln.).
Vidal is back "after a brief hiatus," as a press release puts it. When Valentina's closed in 2024, it was a high-profile loss, partly because people loved the restaurant so much, and partly because of the chaotic details.
Valentina's was a food truck first, starting in 2013, that became known for its high-quality barbecue. Unfortunately, that shining reputation became tarnished years down the road when the restaurant expanded seemingly beyond its abilities; Vidal and his wife, Modesty, had to step away from the business carrying large debts and poor employee relations.
Madera, though, is ready to vouch for Vidal, who he met while they were both attending St. Edward’s University. They remained friends after transitioning into the restaurant industry. And Madera invokes something that remains unimpeachable: Vidal really knows how to cook.
“Miguel and I have known each other for a long time, and I’m excited to get him back in the game,” said Madera in the release. “I used to crave his food back in the day when his food truck was at Star Bar on West Sixth. He really knows the essence of cooking the Mexican American food I love and respect.”
Churchrow is named for the part of the Crestview neighborhood it resides in alongside more than a dozen churches; it was dubbed Church Row by its neighbors in the 1950s, the release says. The restaurant wants to "become an active member of the community" that has been shaped by educational and community outreach programs over the years.
The new concept has 2,850 square feet to work with, in addition to two custom smokers that were left behind by Black Gold. The renovations for the preceding barbecue restaurant aimed for a more upscale aesthetic, but Madera has implemented new renovations to bring the space back down to a more casual, traditional level. There's now a dog-friendly patio with an agave garden and a playscape within view.
The release does not disclose much about the menu, except that it will feature "Tex-Mex barbecue," that once sold out, will be replaced with tacos and specialty dishes. Since this restaurant is under the Taco Crew Management restaurant group, they've also tapped La Holly beverage director Caleb Chial for a new bar program that will offer"agave-forward" cocktails and beers chosen to pair well with the cuisine.
Churchrow Tejas BBQ will be open 11 am to 10 pm Mondays and Wednesdays, 11 am to 11 pm Thursdays and Fridays, 11 am to 11 pm Saturdays, and 10 am to 5 pm Sundays. It will be closed on Tuesdays.
A very saturated look at spicy chicken and sides.Photo courtesy of Angry Chickz
Cape Bottle Room is pairing ice creams and wines December 9.Photo by Jack Fanelli