culture cooking

East Austin barbecue family holds strong against neighborhood developers

The longtime business hopes to preserve the neighborhood's culture.

Photo courtesy of KVUE

When you first arrive at Sam's BBQ on East 12th Street in East Austin, you are greeted by the sweet aromas of Texas barbecue before you even step foot inside the family-owned shop.

Once inside, it's impossible not to take in the hundreds of photographs pasted to the walls. They include many photos of family and friends, plus familiar faces like former president Bill Clinton and music legend Stevie Ray Vaughn.

The owner of Sam's, Brian Mays, remembers what it was like when his father first bought the restaurant from his friend, Sam, in 1957.

"This side here was for Black folks, Spanish folks, low class income," Mays said. "We made money all night long, but as we got older, things started changing. So we got to prepare for the change too."

The East Austin neighborhood looks very different than it did back then. Now when you drive around, you'll see shiny, modern condos sprouting up, lined with glass walls, some being used as Airbnbs. You'll also see construction sites and new businesses.

"It was an old Black neighborhood then. There were 500 Black businesses over here," Mays said.

But with each hungry developer that comes his way, eyeing his property to make an offer to buy it, Mays turns them down every time – including the pretty penny offered to him in 2018.

"I think that year, they came with $5 million. And everyone's like, 'Why are you turning all these millions down?'" Mays said. "I said, 'If I don't turn it down, I won't have anything no more.'"

Now he's hoping to pass the baton to his children and grandchildren – like Lesha Griffin, who has always known Mays as her "papa."

"Personally, it was important for me to see representation. To know a Black-owned business can last for 60 years and do that. It's a big deal," Griffin said.

In recent years, Griffin helped Mays' daughter, Tameka Mays, open the Austin Daiquiri Factory connected to the BBQ restaurant. Their goal is to bring in a new crowd with their colorful, flavorful boozy beverages.

"Three years ago, we were in the middle of COVID. We were trying to find a way to stimulate traffic within the BBQ shop," Griffin said.

Read the full story and watch the video at KVUE.com.

barbecue east austin

Lord of the wings

16 Austin restaurants face off in CultureMap's Ultimate Wing Showdown

Photo courtesy of Pluckers

Chicken wing-lovers have their own preferences, but only one can win.

Nothing says getting together to watch sports with friends quite like a big plate of wings. As part of The Tailgate presented by Verizon — CultureMap's all-out party devoted to everyone’s favorite way to get in the gameday spirit — we’re asking a simple question:

Which bar, restaurant, or food truck in Austin serves the best wings?

To answer that question, we’ve created the Ultimate Wing Showdown. CultureMap editors have selected 16 nominees that we think have a shot at the title. Just like we do for the CultureMap Tastemaker Awards Best New Restaurant tournament, we’re asking readers to vote in a bracket-style, head-to-head tournament that will produce Austin's ultimate wing joint.

True to the diversity of Austin, the nominees cover a wide range of styles and cultural influences — everything from a classic crispy Buffalo wing to wings coated in Sichuan pepper or even powdered sugar. Read on for more about the nominees, then click here to vote for your favorites.

People may vote once per day, and the results will be closely monitored to ensure a fair outcome. We’ll reveal the winner on stage at The Tailgate event on Thursday, December 12 at Distribution Hall.

The night will also include celebrity appearances, games, food from local restaurants, and drinks from the event’s sponsors. Verizon and CultureMap are even giving away a VIP trip for two to Super Bowl LIX*. More details on how to enter here for a chance to win.

Read more about The Tailgate here, and follow all the details in our special editorial series. You won’t want to miss it, so get your tickets today.

Here are the nominees in the Ultimate Wing Showdown:

Spicy Boysvs.Tommy Want Wingy
The only thing hotter than Spicy Boys' chicken is its reputation, having won several awards and become a go-to for chicken lovers who want something just a bit outside of the norm. The Asian flavors like Indonesian sambal were a hit, but will voters rally behind a current focus on boneless options? "Nugs" are $10.99.

Tommy ain't the only one who want Wingy. This food truck "take[s] all the fuss and mess out of the chicken wing" by shaping it into a "lollipop." Sauces start pretty standard and move into more unique territory, like the Spicy Pineapple with Sriracha or the Holy Schnikes, which comes with a warning: "Painfully hot!" Combos start at 5 pieces with fries for $15.68.

Pluckers vs. Wingzup
If there's a classic Austin wing, it's at Pluckers. The popular chain started at the University of Texas and has expanded to dozens of locations as far away as Baton Rouge, Louisiana. Some interesting flavors outside the classics include maple chipotle and Dr Pepper. Five wings start at $8.75.

Wingzup is similarly committed to the art of the wing, with more than 20 sauces and rubs to choose from. That list goes all the way from a classic garlic parmesan to a Jamaican jerk, Korean gochujang, or even ghost pepper. Guests who win the ghost challenge get a $20 gift card and a shirt. Five wings start at $8.49.

Tiki Tatsu-Ya vs. hiwings
Tiki Tatsu-Ya is perhaps the most unexpected pick on the list, which really goes to show the strength of its wing game. The mochiko wings are coated in sweet rice flour, then a mapo-miso glaze and Karashi mustard. These aren't as spicy as they are mouth numbing; they'll rearrange your tastebuds. An order upstairs at The Nest is $13.

Hiwings are also made with sweet rice and other flour, and patrons can choose among 10 sauces, plus more for dipping. They can also opt for "naked" wings, which have no flour coating at all. Hiwings says those are how wings are "supposed" to taste; voters will be the judge of that. Five wings start at $9.99.

Halal Wingsvs.The Potluck
Austinites don't have to commit to a halal diet to enjoy these very crispy wings. These chefs create spice blends for their take on wings from several cuisines, including Mexican, Chinese, Mediterranean, and Cajun. But the Halal Hot is the pinnacle for those brave enough to try it. Six wings start at $7.99.

The Potluck food truck and catering company is known for one wing above all: the crack wing, which is dusted with powdered sugar. It has plenty of other obscurely named flavors, plus sides you don't usually see at a wing place like shrimp étouffée and rice and beans. Six wings are $10.66.

Nickel Cityvs.Industry East Side
A great wing is paramount, but good atmosphere elevates everything. Nickel City offers both, and it's natural that the Buffalo, New York-inspired bar would have a solid wing on offer. Most important, it doesn't get too flashy with sauces — it's just the classics, plus Franklin Barbecue sauce. A pound of wings (about six) is $12.69.

Industry, an East 5th Street bar and restaurant that largely courts hospitality industry workers as clientele, keeps wing-lovers' options open with mix-and-match platters. Combos can be made with Buffalo, lemon pepper, barbecue, blackberry-habanero, and plain flavors. Six wings are $12.

Stiles Switch BBQ vs. Home Slice Pizza
A barbecue joint may not be most people's first choice for wings, but Stiles Switch is out here converting nonbelievers. Since it would be a crime to cover up the flavors of oak smoke, it makes sense that the only four flavors are pretty simple: garlic parmesan, Alabama white sauce, Buffalo, and honey barbecue sauce. Six wings are $14.

Austinites can't be blamed for having a one-track mind at Home Slice Pizza, but just ordering pies means missing out elsewhere on the menu. One of its incognito menu items is a plate of wings in the style of Buffalo's Anchor Bar, served with blue cheese dressing and celery. Home Slice's version is known for being very crispy. Six wings are $10.50.

Anchor Bar vs. Haymaker
For Buffalo wings, Austinites can go back to the source — or at least an outpost. There are now 16 descendants of the New York restaurant where the recipe was invented, and one is in Round Rock. Anchor bar won't pigeonhole itself, though. It serves wings with 25 sauces and rubs. Ten wings are $17.99.

Haymaker is mostly known for its laid-back environment, but its elevated pub fare also draws customers in. Like most of the nostalgic menu items, its crispy wings are kept simple: mild Buffalo, hot chipotle, garlic parmesan, Carolina gold barbecue, lemon pepper, and tangy teriyaki. Half a pound of mixed pieces is $10.

Casino El Camino vs. Thunder Chief
Casino El Camino is a surprising foodie favorite considering its downtown dive bar status. In addition to great burgers, it has solid Buffalo wings served with celery, carrots, and blue cheese or ranch dip. Although it's just one style, they come in four heat levels from mild to "downright explosive." Eight wings are $14.50.

Thunder Chief, the kitchen inside the Lavaca Street Bar on South Lamar Boulevard, has balanced the arts of both heavy and carefully crafted foods, including its tea-brined chicken wings. They're crispy without breading, meaty, and elegantly plated. Adventurous flavors appear on a rotating basis. Five wings are $9.

Made up your mind? Vote here for your favorites.

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The Tailgate is presented by Verizon and sponsored by HOWDY, Houston Powder Coaters, EIGHT Beer, and more to be announced.

*The NFL Entities shall have no liability or responsibility for any claim arising in connection with participation in this sweepstakes or any prize awarded. The NFL Entities have not offered or sponsored this sweepstakes in any way.

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