Cheers to Beers

Austin beer legend surprises us all by reopening iconic brewery

Austin's first craft brewery reopens this spring.

Photo courtesy of Christine Celis

Here's a big batch of brew news for you: Christine Celis will reopen Austin's legendary Celis Brewery this spring. The project, announced last year, was previously known as Flemish Fox Brewery and Craftworks.

Celis Brewery was the work of legendary brewmaster Pierre Celis, Christine's father, who played an integral part in the development of the local beer scene, opening Austin's first craft brewery in 1992 and introducing his Belgian-style witbier to the area.

After a buyout by Miller Brewing Company, Celis Brewery shuttered — and with it went the family name. Rights to the Celis brand and beer were eventually acquired by Total Beverage Solutions and Craftbev International Amalgamated Inc. A deal was brokered in February for Christine to use the name.

"I've been working on this for a very long time and it was always my desire to have the name back, but not knowing if that was actually a possibility, we called it Flemish Fox," Christine explains. "People were willing to sell the name to me because they knew that I was going to continue my dad's legacy."

That legacy includes Celis standards such as the award-winning White and Grand Cru. Also making a comeback are a handful of original team members, with new additions like Christine's daughter and brewer, Daytona Camps, rounding out the lineup.

All details about the forthcoming brewery remain the same. In addition to a production and distribution facility, the large warehouse complex in North Austin includes a beer garden and taproom; cafe; and 3,800-square-foot museum which will house original equipment that Pierre Celis brewed with in his hometown of Hoegaarden, Belgium.

The equipment is historically significant for many reasons. Hoegaarden, the birthplace of Belgian witbier, lost its last wheat beer brewery in 1955. But in 1965, after trying his hand at home brewing, Pierre opened his own witbier brewery. Celis beer became a huge success in Belgium, eventually relocating to Austin in the '90s.

Christine plans to pick back up where she and her father left off by hosting live music events, giving back to charity, and having beer enthusiasts and professionals come through to learn more about brewing.

For 15 years Christine tried tirelessly to earn back the Celis name and the rights to brew her father's beer. "You never give up. At the right time, there is always a solution — things will fall into place," she says. "We got the right location, we got the right team, we got the name."

Celis Brewery is scheduled to debut this spring at 10001 Metric Blvd., joining several other Austin brew spots in the area. The brewery will be the first part of the complex to open, followed by the beer garden, the Belgian Brown cafe, and the museum.

openings craft-beer breweries

Omakase for Everyone

New South Austin restaurant swims against current of expensive omakase

Photo courtesy of Tancho Sushi

Tancho Sushi keeps things simple.

Austin had no shortage of beautiful sushi restaurants, but a new one at Lantana Place is doing drawing the trend away from the center of the city and sticking a lower price tag on the experience. Tancho Sushi, offering "everyday omakase," is now open at 7415 Southwest Parkway.

The thought of casual omakase feels like a bit of an oxymoron in Austin, where the service style — which tasks the chef with choosing what the diner will eat — is almost synonymous with something fancy and expensive. Factor in the interior design at Tancho, which certainly doesn't look pedestrian, and it's hard to believe it's actually an everyday meal.

But all things considered, these prices seem reasonable: $29 for the lightest dinner option, and capping out at a $59 feast. Lunch is even less expensive, starting at $24.

Tancho Sushi interior The airy space takes advantage of its surroundings outside of the city.Photo courtesy of Tancho Sushi

In some omakase experiences, the chef might factor in a diner's taste, the special ingredients that are available that day, and any number of other factors to determine what hits the table. But at Tancho, these prix fixe options are predetermined, doubtlessly contributing to the more accessible pricing.

The 50-seat restaurant also uses a clever marketing angle to get diners in who aren't necessarily experienced in sushi, or might otherwise be intimidated by letting a chef choose unfamiliar foods. "With thoughtfully curated preset menus, Tancho simplifies the dining experience by eliminating the guesswork so guests can focus on enjoying their meals," a press release announcing the opening says.

The release was sent November 22, but it looks like Tancho has been serving customers in a soft opening capacity for about a month, based on its Google reviews (which are stunningly high for a new restaurant at 4.7 stars).

Offerings at Tancho are simple.Photo courtesy of Tancho Sushi

Although each menu is different, there is a shared arc. All four experiences start with sunomono salad, a cucumber-based dish with red seaweed and sesame. Then there's tuna sashimi with smoked yuzu ponzu and scallions, and the rest depends on what the diner chooses.

Some standout items across the dinner service are sea bream on the light menu; akami (very red meat along the spine of a tuna) on the standard omakase menu; a lobster open hand roll on the rolls-only menu; and a tuna flight on the grand omakase menu.

No menu item is especially complicated. The focus is on doing each ingredient right, including the temperature the fish is served at and even the flavor of house-made soy sauce and ponzu.

“We keep the focus on the ingredients,” said co-founder Brad Van Otterloo in the release. “By stripping away unnecessary flourishes, we allow the quality of our fish to take center stage. This is a Texas-born concept through and through, and we’re proud to contribute to Austin’s growing sushi reputation.”

The open hand rolls are a signature for the restaurant.Photo courtesy of Tancho Sushi

Despite all this talk of omakase, it is possible to order à la carte items: some appetizers, nigiri (sliced fish on top of rice), and rolls. There's also a carefully curated beverage program, which largely focuses on sake. That includes the Kubota Manju or “Ten Thousand Celebrations" ($79), renowned in Japan for its complex layers and smooth mouthfeel.

“As Austin continues to grow, we wanted to introduce a fresh take on the sushi experience,” said Van Otterloo. “We’re here to make sushi approachable for Austinites while honoring the integrity of this cuisine. It’s about creating a space where everyone can discover and enjoy sushi at their own pace – no pressure, no pretense.”

Tancho Sushi exterior This restaurant is meant to be approachable.Image courtesy of Tancho Sushi

Tancho Sushi is located at 7415 Southwest Parkway, Building 4, Suite 300. It's open daily from 11 am to 10 pm, offering both dine-in and takeout. There are no reservations.

omakase sushi openings south austin