Venerable fashion houses often look to new designers to shake things up and garner some buzz for a faded name. Just this season, Brooks Brothers snared Zac Posen to design its women's line, Banana Republic tapped edgy designer Timo Weiland to create a capsule collection, and DKNY picked the hot Public School duo of Dao-Yi Chow and Maxwell Osborne to breathe new life into the brand.
But no one has done a better job of creating excitement at a once-stodgy label than Lacoste's Felipe Oliveira Baptista.
Since taking over as creative director in 2010 after Christophe Lemaire decamped for Hermès, Baptista has reinvented Lacoste as a hip lifestyle label while remaining true to its sportswear roots. The spring 2016 collection, unveiled at New York Fashion Week amid a runway canopy of white nylon straps and silver buckles, has a sporty theme with a crisp urban style.
Baptista has clearly got the Olympic spirit since Lacoste is outfitting the French delegation at next summer's games in Rio de Janeiro a few months after this collection hits stores. He sent out male and female models in sporty track pants and jackets in a jumble of national banners, with elements of the South African, French, U.S., Japanese, and Russian flags. Oversized ponchos, coats, and bomber jackets in abstract prints and camouflage patterns also emulate the idea of flag-draped athletes.
For a more urban attitude, Baptista features a flowing green satin gown that looks like it wandered over from the Ralph Lauren Collection, sexy body-hugging dresses with cutouts at the waist, and a form-fitting jumpsuit with a plunging deep V neckline that had to be one of the sexiest looks on the fashion week runway.
Other eye-catchers include suits made from silver metallic or bright red fabric, safari dresses of parachute nylon, and a windbreaker that can be worn as a cape with shoulder straps.
The collection is sprinkled with a few polo shirts in colorful broken flag patterns, and the legendary crocodile insignia appears here and there. But Baptista proves that Lacoste no longer has to rely on the old standards for success.
Lacoste has got Texas in its sights, with a new store set to open September 26 in Dallas' NorthPark Center. It currently operates a boutique in Houston at The Galleria.
Lacoste flag-inspired pants and jacket.
DIIV's set was moody, but propulsive thanks to strong bass lines.Photo by Brianna Caleri
Zachary Cole Smith can always be counted on for a nostalgic 'fit.Photo by Brianna Caleri
Starcleaner Reunion singer Jo Roman keeps the beat.Photo by Brianna Caleri
From the looks of it, no one had a better time onstage than Wayne Coyne, frontman of the Flaming Lips.Photo by Brianna Caleri
The tinsel whip was one of many props.Photo by Brianna Caleri
The Flaming Lips are known for touring with huge inflatables.Photo by Brianna Caleri
A joyful crowd reacts to being blasted with confetti during the Flaming Lips' set.Photo by Brianna Caleri
Ty Segall was king of the guitar jams.Photo by Brianna Caleri
Segall's painted jeans were probably the most unique fashion statement all weekend.Photo by Brianna Caleri
The Psych Fest uniform: Earthy shorts and calf tattoos.Photo by Brianna Caleri
Thomas Attar Bellier of Al-Qasar plays a beautifully adorned electric saz.Photo by Brianna Caleri
The more mics, the better for Al-Qasar.Photo by Brianna Caleri
A closer look at the saz.Photo by Brianna Caleri
Lyrics in Arabic brought extra gravitas to the set.Photo by Brianna Caleri
How's that for a desert hallucination?Photo by Brianna Caleri
New Candys guitarist Emanuele Zanardo puts a physical flourish in his playing.Photo by Brianna Caleri
A portal opens...Photo by Brianna Caleri
The Black Angels interrupted the technicolor parade for a largely black-and-white set.Photo by Brianna Caleri
Black Angels bassist Misti Hamrick-French basks in the cold glow of a strobe light.Photo by Brianna Caleri
Dumbo Gets Mad reminds us that Italians just get fashion.Photo by Brianna Caleri
Guitarist Luca Bergomi gets in on bassist Ivan Torelli's shot.Photo by Brianna Caleri
LA LOM bassist Jake Faulkner captures the sun.Photo by Brianna Caleri
Guitarist Zac Sokolow danced for the whole set, which happened to be on his birthday.Photo by Brianna Caleri
Faulkner's grandstanding added flavor to the show, which ultimately didn't need psychedelic visuals.Photo by Brianna Caleri
Faulkner's howls cut through the air, hardly amplified.Photo by Brianna Caleri
Trish Toledo paid homage to mothers and couples in her romantic set.Photo by Brianna Caleri
Not a practical shoe for a rainy weekend. We salute her sacrifice for fashion.Photo by Brianna Caleri
Thee Sacred Souls closed out the festival with a brass section.Photo by Brianna Caleri
This backup singer was exquisitely styled in blue.Photo by Brianna Caleri
Singer Josh Lane snapped a photo of an adoring audience. See you next time, Josh.Photo by Brianna Caleri