Rocky Mountain Getaway
Breckenridge: Austin's high altitude sister city
When the weather is flirting with 70-degree temperatures in January, it's hard to feel like winter is really here. Which is why many Austinites who long for a taste of snow-covered terrain and perhaps even a little white-powder recreation look to the Rocky Mountains for a more authentic winter experience.
While there are many ski resorts to choose from in Colorado, New Mexico, Utah, or even the lovely Lake Tahoe area, there is only one that really feels like a home away from home if you're from Austin. That place is Breckenridge, Colorado.
Though more of a ski "town" than a ski "resort," Breckenridge is managed as a resort by Vail Resorts, which owns and operates a number of ski areas including Vail, Beaver Creek, Keystone and Heavenly in Tahoe.
But instead of feeling like you're vacationing in some pre-fab themed village, Breckenridge has a small town feel with a main street lined with historic buildings, charming shops, myriad cafes and restaurants. Celebrating its 50th Anniversary, Breckenridge resort is offering a variety of different winter and summer deals throughout the year making this an opportune time to pay a visit.
I like this town, because while many ski resorts have a glitzy, glammy aura to them, Breckenridge feels as though you're hanging out on South Congress or in one of Austin’s hip neighborhoods such as Clarksville or Hyde Park — except with a backdrop of 10,000-foot snow-capped mountains.
The people are friendly and down to earth, the places to eat and shop are anything but pretentious, and much like Austin, you get a genuine feeling that everyone there is interested in enjoying one thing, the outdoors.
A good friend got me hooked on this Summit County town about ten years ago while my husband and I were up for a summer vacation. We loved it so much, we've been back every year since — though it's usually in the late summer for fly-fishing. We love other Colorado ski resorts as well, but there's just something about Breckenridge that feels like home.
Winter
Though I enjoy visiting Breckenridge for a little skiing, I have to admit, as one of the most visited ski resorts in the country (based on ski pass numbers), this place can get pretty congested on weekends and during holidays. (Word to the wise: President's Day weekend is absolute mayhem.) But if you're one of the early birds who like to hit the slopes the second the lifts open, you may not be too disappointed.
With more than 30 lifts and 2,300 acres of skiing terrain on 155 trails, skiers and snowboarders alike have ample space to spread out and ride, just know that you all pretty much end up in the same spot, so beginner-to-kamakazi adventure skier collisions are a little more likely.
But if you need a ski break and still want some invigorating outdoor activity, spend an afternoon snow-showing, which is essentially hiking with big flat paddles strapped to your feet. Snow shoes these days are pretty high-tech and once you get the hang of them, you can zip through a few different trails in no time. You can rent snow shoes at the Breckenridge Nordic Center, who will also give you a few trail suggestions. And if cross-country skiing is your thing, these guys can help you with that too.
Summer
Just as Colorado ski country can be the answer to Texans who wish for a winter wonderland in the colder months, it's also the remedy for those of us who just can't take the sweltering Texas summer heat. I like to stick out the summer as long as possible in Austin before breaking to Breckenridge — ideally in late August or early September.
By this time, the summer vacationers have dwindled as kids go back to school, the town clears out leaving laid back locals to befriend, and the majority of the summer snow has had a chance to melt and flush out the rivers making way for epic fly fishing.
If you too are an angler, consider that Breckenridge sits as a veritable center point for the Blue, Platte, Colorado, Arkansas and even Eagle rivers. You can wet your lines in any one of these within an hour from the city limits, and most of the fisheries are replenished from the typical summer fishing pressure by early September, leaving plenty of big brown, rainbow and brook trout for the taking.
If you're looking for a guided trip, these are a couple of friendly, approachable outfitters. It's not easy to find great guides, but these two spots have always been reliable for our angling trips: Mountain Angler (in the heart of Breckenridge), Blue River Anglers .
But if fly-fishing isn't your thing, summers in Breckenridge are still enchanting. You can get your fill of hiking and cycling whether its through the myriad races held in the area throughout the season or simply for your own enjoyment. Families can take advantage of the summer gondolas, the Gold Runner Coaster and the town famous Alpine Slide.
Where to Eat
Relish Overlooking the town square, Relish is the place to go if you are looking for a nice dining experience. Serving hearty modern American cuisine with dishes such as grilled venison with sweet potato and celery root cake; lamb shank Milaneses with saffron rissoto; or porcini-grilled ruby red trout with parmesan polenta, you'll find an elegant and delishious stick-to-your ribs meal at Relish. But it also fits the bill f you're just looking for a place to grab a cocktail or a nice glass of wine with friends.
Giampetro's This is a tiny little pizza joint right no Main Street. By tiny, I mean it only seats about 20 people and the waiting list on weekends keeps people out in the cold for hours. But the pizza is worth it. Especially after a day on the slopes, which is why I prefer to skip the long dine-in wait and order a pie or some calzones to go. Snuggled back at my lodge room with some Giampetro’s with a six pack of beer is the best way to unwind—whether you’ve been skiing the back bowls or wading through rocky trout streams.
South Ridge Seafood Grill If your looking for good food, a great bar, and a place where you can just come as you are, then ditch the Main Street touristy restaurants and go to South Ridge Seafood Grill. It’s reliably good. The staff is friendly. And it’s where the locals go. Start with the mussels in Thai red curry coconut broth sopped up with some fresh French bread and follow it with grilled trout served with a tasty bacon-potato and shrimp hash that would be just as good as leftovers with a fried egg on top.
Mother Loaded Tavern This is the kind of place you stumble into after you’ve spent a few too many hours apres skiing. It’s a whole in the wall for sure, but if you’re looking for a cheap can of PBR served in a paper bag, a deep-fried Twinkie and a good game of pinball—and believe me, you won’t be the only one—the Mother Loaded Tavern is the place.
Twist Relish’s relatively new sister restaurant, Twist does exactly that to a menu of Southern comfort food. Located a few blocks from Main Street in a cute historic house, you’ll find seasonal things like braised chicken and root vegetable pot pie, a BLT of braised pork belly, tomato marmalade and arugula aioli; and braised lamb sirloin, truffled fingerling potatoes and smoked bacon and green pepper bordelaise.
Where to Stay
There’s no shortage of lodging options in Breckenridge. If you’re looking for nice, new and convenient for skiing, check out One Ski Hill located at the base of Peak 8 and boasting the top of the line in resort amenities, or Crystal Peak Lodge, which is based at the foot of Peak 7 and is the ideal take off point to Breck's intermediate through expert runs. Both have large rooms, great views, friendly and helpful staff and are also an easy walk to shopping and dining.
The Hyatt Main Street Station and the River Mountain Lodge are a few years older but have great access to both lifts and downtown. But while I’ve checked out these places on a few different visits, I’d have to say my favorite outlet for Breckenridge accommodations is HomeAway.com. I’ve found a couple of reliable condos on this sight that I continue to keep on file for future visits. You’ll find just about anything to suit all budget ranges. The only compromise is that you’re pretty much on your own when it comes to resort amenities. For that, you’re better off booking the places listed above.