News you can eat

New deli pops up on east side, GQ brews up praise for Austin, plus more food news

While Sam Hellman-Mass is busy transforming Eastside Cafe, a new deli has opened on the property.

Photo by Holly Postler

Editor's note: We get it. It can be difficult to keep up with the what’s what and who’s who of Austin food. We have you covered with our regular roundup of the freshest Austin restaurant news.

While Austinites speculate on what Suerte owner Sam Hellman-Massplans to do with the former Eastside Cafe, a temporary concept has popped up on the property. Mum Foods Deli, a partnership between Hellman-Mass and Matti Bills and Geoff Ellis of Mum Foods, opened in the former home of Elaine’s Pork & Pie on April 23. The shop, which will be around until sometime in 2020, carries sandwiches made with locally sourced ingredients from Texas ranchers and Barton Springs Mill, bread from Swedish Hill’s Alex Manley, and pastries from Madison Collins. Hours are Tuesday through Sunday, 10:30 am to 3:30 pm, or until everything sells out.

Omaha-based franchise Scissors & Scotch will open its first Austin location at 7415 Southwest Pkwy. sometime in the fall. Although open to anyone, the barbershop and cocktail bar offers membership programs that include discounts, access to tastings, and guest passes. To keep clients from looking like Skrillex, presumably the booze will be limited to those sitting in the chair.

Austin’s Royal Blue Grocery may have conquered its hometown, but the San Antonio Express-News’ Paul Stephens is less than impressed. In a “Just a Taste” review of the first San Antonio location, the critic praised the grocery selection, but the kind words stopped there. “For those wondering if Royal Blue has invigorated [the neighborhood]'s sparse sandwich scene, it hasn’t,” he wrote. “The hot offerings are limited and largely lackluster.”

GQ gave East Austin’s The Brewer’s Table some props in the May issue, naming the restaurant’s smoked rabbit carnitas one of the best dishes he tried in 2019. In the intro, writer Brett Martin says, “I would have happily had any of the restaurants listed below on my main list of Best New Restaurants,” a list also published in the same issue. Chicago’s Kyōten, from Austin expat chef Otto Phan, did make that list.

Tired of frittering your money away on mortgages and bills? Head to Fleming’s Prime Steakhouse & Wine Bar in May to get tipsy on a $100 margarita. The ostentatious cocktail is made with Tequila Ocho Extra Anejo La Latilla and Grand Marnier Cuvee du Centenaire served in a Baccarat diamant tumbler garnished with a lime wheel and pineapple leaves cut with pinking shears because zigzags are fancier than straight lines. That $100 would also make an impact as a donation to one of the nonprofit’s listed in our charity guide. Just sayin’.

Briggo, the local company that eases the awkwardness of barista small talk by removing humans altogether, is opening a second “robotic coffee haus” in the Austin-Bergstrom International Airport in mid-May. The high-tech kiosk mimics upscale caffeine purveyors by allowing guests to create their own coffee drinks with a variety of syrups and milks by touch screen or app. It is a weirder place for a date, however, than a traditional coffee shop.

Consumer Reports also extended another Austin favorite some love. The consumer advocacy nonprofit named Central Market one of five regional grocery chains to receive top marks for consumer satisfaction. Trader Joe’s, with three Capital City locations, was the only national chain to be named the best of the best.

The James Beard Foundation has named Lucky Robot as Texas’ first Smart Catch Leader. To qualify, eateries must pass a series of assessments and drastically limit serving threatened species designated by the Monterey Seafood Watch Program. “As a sushi restaurant, we rely on the availability of fish for our business,” said Lucky Robot executive chef Jay Huang via release. “Our choice to become fully sustainable is to ensure the fish we eat and serve today will be available for the next generation and the generations after that.”

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Omakase for Everyone

New South Austin restaurant swims against current of expensive omakase

Photo courtesy of Tancho Sushi

Tancho Sushi keeps things simple.

Austin had no shortage of beautiful sushi restaurants, but a new one at Lantana Place is doing drawing the trend away from the center of the city and sticking a lower price tag on the experience. Tancho Sushi, offering "everyday omakase," is now open at 7415 Southwest Parkway.

The thought of casual omakase feels like a bit of an oxymoron in Austin, where the service style — which tasks the chef with choosing what the diner will eat — is almost synonymous with something fancy and expensive. Factor in the interior design at Tancho, which certainly doesn't look pedestrian, and it's hard to believe it's actually an everyday meal.

But all things considered, these prices seem reasonable: $29 for the lightest dinner option, and capping out at a $59 feast. Lunch is even less expensive, starting at $24.

Tancho Sushi interior The airy space takes advantage of its surroundings outside of the city.Photo courtesy of Tancho Sushi

In some omakase experiences, the chef might factor in a diner's taste, the special ingredients that are available that day, and any number of other factors to determine what hits the table. But at Tancho, these prix fixe options are predetermined, doubtlessly contributing to the more accessible pricing.

The 50-seat restaurant also uses a clever marketing angle to get diners in who aren't necessarily experienced in sushi, or might otherwise be intimidated by letting a chef choose unfamiliar foods. "With thoughtfully curated preset menus, Tancho simplifies the dining experience by eliminating the guesswork so guests can focus on enjoying their meals," a press release announcing the opening says.

The release was sent November 22, but it looks like Tancho has been serving customers in a soft opening capacity for about a month, based on its Google reviews (which are stunningly high for a new restaurant at 4.7 stars).

Offerings at Tancho are simple.Photo courtesy of Tancho Sushi

Although each menu is different, there is a shared arc. All four experiences start with sunomono salad, a cucumber-based dish with red seaweed and sesame. Then there's tuna sashimi with smoked yuzu ponzu and scallions, and the rest depends on what the diner chooses.

Some standout items across the dinner service are sea bream on the light menu; akami (very red meat along the spine of a tuna) on the standard omakase menu; a lobster open hand roll on the rolls-only menu; and a tuna flight on the grand omakase menu.

No menu item is especially complicated. The focus is on doing each ingredient right, including the temperature the fish is served at and even the flavor of house-made soy sauce and ponzu.

“We keep the focus on the ingredients,” said co-founder Brad Van Otterloo in the release. “By stripping away unnecessary flourishes, we allow the quality of our fish to take center stage. This is a Texas-born concept through and through, and we’re proud to contribute to Austin’s growing sushi reputation.”

The open hand rolls are a signature for the restaurant.Photo courtesy of Tancho Sushi

Despite all this talk of omakase, it is possible to order à la carte items: some appetizers, nigiri (sliced fish on top of rice), and rolls. There's also a carefully curated beverage program, which largely focuses on sake. That includes the Kubota Manju or “Ten Thousand Celebrations" ($79), renowned in Japan for its complex layers and smooth mouthfeel.

“As Austin continues to grow, we wanted to introduce a fresh take on the sushi experience,” said Van Otterloo. “We’re here to make sushi approachable for Austinites while honoring the integrity of this cuisine. It’s about creating a space where everyone can discover and enjoy sushi at their own pace – no pressure, no pretense.”

Tancho Sushi exterior This restaurant is meant to be approachable.Image courtesy of Tancho Sushi

Tancho Sushi is located at 7415 Southwest Parkway, Building 4, Suite 300. It's open daily from 11 am to 10 pm, offering both dine-in and takeout. There are no reservations.

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