Austin's aptly named Underdog, a natural wine bar and upscale Korean restaurant, has both triumphed and decided not to pick any more battles. Business and life partners Claudia Lee and Richard Hargreave are closing Underdog after service on Saturday, March 8, and evolving it into a new concept.
A press release attributes the closing to a feeling shared by Lee and Hargreave, who suspect that the space would be better for a neighborhood restaurant — usually that means a more casual, accessible spot that draws regulars from around the neighborhood. They pulled the trigger when they found "a chef-partner who shared their vision," whose identity remains a mystery for now.
“What began as a wine bar has revealed its true potential as a neighborhood restaurant,” said Lee in the release, emphasizing that the plan evolved during the restaurant's first year. It originally opened in May 2023. However, the couple wanted to wait for a good match to help them bring the evolving idea to life.
She continues, saying that through serving guests, they became more and more invested in finding "a talented chef whose philosophy of welcoming, community-focused dining resonates deeply with ours.”
Although Underdog was only open for a short time — and was certainly a niche concept in a place where locals aren't usually seeking out wine and Korean food — it impressed a small pocket of just the right people. It was on best-of lists by Austin Monthly, The New York Times, and World’s 50 Best. Guests didn't need help from a publication to appreciate the immaculately presented dishes like super-rare steak and bright ssam (lettuce wraps).
An extensive wine list didn't feature any soju or other Korean spirit besides one craft beer. Instead, it sourced wines from France, Spain, Portugal, Italy, Slovenia, Australia, and more.
"When we moved to Austin, we were newcomers to the city," says a post on Instagram announcing the closure. "Without having regulars, colleagues, or vendors in our Rolodex, we built Underdog with grit and passion. We are so proud to achieve success and recognition within the community, from the media, and amongst industry colleagues."
A portion of proceeds from the restaurant's final week will support the Pasadena Humane Society, which sheltered more than 1,000 companion animals during the recent Eaton Fire in California and is still working with volunteers to support victims.
The press release shares an opening estimate for the new restaurant: May 2025. It sounds like hours may be changing as things wind down; customers should check Instagram before stopping by.
“It has been an absolute joy, honor, and privilege to serve this community and to make great wines more accessible in Austin,” said Hargreave. “While we’re keeping details on the new restaurant under wraps for the moment, we can say that this collaboration promises to bring something special to Austin’s dining scene – a gathering place that feels like home, where our dedication to low-intervention, sustainable wines will continue with even more focus and personality.”