Good good News

East Austin's favorite Thai food truck sparks innovative new barbecue spot

Dee Dee is branching out into Thai barbecue with a new food truck.

If the restaurant explosion over the last decade has made Austin a more interesting place to eat, it has also come at a cost. After years of risk taking — the very thing that made the city's cuisine so electric — local business owners are now dealing with higher costs and fierce competition. More often than not, that leads to playing it safe rather than sparking innovation.

But one bright spot has been the local food truck fleet, which has dealt with its own pressures such as decreasing real estate, but still produces some of the most interesting and diverse dishes in the city. Arguably, no truck has shined brighter recently than Dee Dee, a mom-and-pop operation that has lived up to its name (good good in English) by delivering thrilling Northern Thai cooking since 2016.

Beginning this fall, the owners are building on that formula with a new trailer serving rustic Thai barbecue right next door to the original truck outside East Austin bar La Holly at 2300 E. Sixth St.

Co-owner Justin Trubiana tells CultureMap that he is nearing completion on the project, which required the construction of a custom motorized rotisserie from motorcycle chains and sprockets and “a big ass fire pit.” Though the date is still up in the air, the new truck will debut in October, barring any construction delays.

Justin says that an expanded menu was part of the business plan long before the opening. The farmer-style of barbecue Dee Dee will soon be offering was a big part of wife Lakana’s upbringing in the Isaan district of Thailand, where live-fire cooking could be found at every food vendor.

With help from longtime employee Connor Wood, the Trubianas have developed a simple menu they plan to initially roll out one day a week. Among the dishes will be spatchcocked marinated whole chickens served with the truck’s signature sticky rice and spicy and sweet dipping sauces, dry short ribs, and Thai beef jerky. Justin says the truck might also add sour fermented Isaan sausage and whole grilled fish crusted with salt and stuffed with lemongrass.

Besides the new dishes, the expansion comes with some other good news. Justin hopes the expanded cooking and storage space will allow Dee Dee to start offering catering and possibly allow pre-orders, a boon for fans.

Once open, the Trubianas will start off slowly by selling only one or two menu items available until sold out. As with all things in Austin, be prepared for a line.

Omakase for Everyone

New South Austin restaurant swims against current of expensive omakase

Photo courtesy of Tancho Sushi

Tancho Sushi keeps things simple.

Austin had no shortage of beautiful sushi restaurants, but a new one at Lantana Place is doing drawing the trend away from the center of the city and sticking a lower price tag on the experience. Tancho Sushi, offering "everyday omakase," is now open at 7415 Southwest Parkway.

The thought of casual omakase feels like a bit of an oxymoron in Austin, where the service style — which tasks the chef with choosing what the diner will eat — is almost synonymous with something fancy and expensive. Factor in the interior design at Tancho, which certainly doesn't look pedestrian, and it's hard to believe it's actually an everyday meal.

But all things considered, these prices seem reasonable: $29 for the lightest dinner option, and capping out at a $59 feast. Lunch is even less expensive, starting at $24.

Tancho Sushi interior The airy space takes advantage of its surroundings outside of the city.Photo courtesy of Tancho Sushi

In some omakase experiences, the chef might factor in a diner's taste, the special ingredients that are available that day, and any number of other factors to determine what hits the table. But at Tancho, these prix fixe options are predetermined, doubtlessly contributing to the more accessible pricing.

The 50-seat restaurant also uses a clever marketing angle to get diners in who aren't necessarily experienced in sushi, or might otherwise be intimidated by letting a chef choose unfamiliar foods. "With thoughtfully curated preset menus, Tancho simplifies the dining experience by eliminating the guesswork so guests can focus on enjoying their meals," a press release announcing the opening says.

The release was sent November 22, but it looks like Tancho has been serving customers in a soft opening capacity for about a month, based on its Google reviews (which are stunningly high for a new restaurant at 4.7 stars).

Offerings at Tancho are simple.Photo courtesy of Tancho Sushi

Although each menu is different, there is a shared arc. All four experiences start with sunomono salad, a cucumber-based dish with red seaweed and sesame. Then there's tuna sashimi with smoked yuzu ponzu and scallions, and the rest depends on what the diner chooses.

Some standout items across the dinner service are sea bream on the light menu; akami (very red meat along the spine of a tuna) on the standard omakase menu; a lobster open hand roll on the rolls-only menu; and a tuna flight on the grand omakase menu.

No menu item is especially complicated. The focus is on doing each ingredient right, including the temperature the fish is served at and even the flavor of house-made soy sauce and ponzu.

“We keep the focus on the ingredients,” said co-founder Brad Van Otterloo in the release. “By stripping away unnecessary flourishes, we allow the quality of our fish to take center stage. This is a Texas-born concept through and through, and we’re proud to contribute to Austin’s growing sushi reputation.”

The open hand rolls are a signature for the restaurant.Photo courtesy of Tancho Sushi

Despite all this talk of omakase, it is possible to order à la carte items: some appetizers, nigiri (sliced fish on top of rice), and rolls. There's also a carefully curated beverage program, which largely focuses on sake. That includes the Kubota Manju or “Ten Thousand Celebrations" ($79), renowned in Japan for its complex layers and smooth mouthfeel.

“As Austin continues to grow, we wanted to introduce a fresh take on the sushi experience,” said Van Otterloo. “We’re here to make sushi approachable for Austinites while honoring the integrity of this cuisine. It’s about creating a space where everyone can discover and enjoy sushi at their own pace – no pressure, no pretense.”

Tancho Sushi exterior This restaurant is meant to be approachable.Image courtesy of Tancho Sushi

Tancho Sushi is located at 7415 Southwest Parkway, Building 4, Suite 300. It's open daily from 11 am to 10 pm, offering both dine-in and takeout. There are no reservations.

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