Another goodbye

Austin's iconic wood-fired pizza restaurant closes last location after 38 years

Brick Oven is turning off the ovens.

Brick Oven

Update, November 12: This story has been updated to clarify that H-E-B is also a tenant in the shopping center, not the landlord.

Another beloved Austin restaurant is closing — but not for the obvious reason. Brick Oven, the homegrown, wood-fired pizza joint that’s been an Austin staple since 1982, is closing its one remaining location at the end of November.

The company has been plagued by the same COVID-19 challenges as every other local restaurant, even having to close its location on Red River Street in March, citing the pandemic and outpacing growth in the surrounding area as insurmountable obstacles. But the closure of Brick Oven’s Arboretum location on Research Boulevard in North Austin is driven by an entirely different circumstance.

“It pretty much has nothing to do with COVID,” Joe Morales, Brick Oven’s general manager of 31 years, tells CultureMap. “H-E-B is expanding and didn’t renew our lease.”

Morales says the Brick Oven owners heard about five months ago that their lease on the Arboretum location may not be extended, information that was confirmed a month later.

As a longstanding business in the community, Brick Oven is beseeching fans to patronize the Arboretum location as often as possible before its last day on November 30 — and letting pizza devotees know the reason for the situation.

"2020 is the worst," reads Brick Oven’s recent blog post about its closure. "It was impossible to predict that the H-E-B would announce its intention to grow and shutter the businesses in the center, including us. We’re homeless. We’re gutted. We’ve lost our lease.”

H-E-B did not immediately respond to requests for comment regarding expansion plans for its Arboretum store.

Morales says since hearing of Brick Oven’s impending closure, Austinites have been extra supportive. He notes the company could use the increased business as owners Donnie Johnson and Stan and Debbie Adams consider whether they’ll be able to reopen the pizza concept at a different location in the future. Morales encourages Brick Oven fans to follow the biz on social media for updates.

“We’re looking around,” Morales says. “There will be plenty of vacant locations around town to check out. We probably won’t be so big. We’ll probably look for smaller locations. But we’re looking pretty aggressively right now. If we can find something in the next couple months, we’ll get the ball rolling.”

closings pizza

Omakase for Everyone

New South Austin restaurant swims against current of expensive omakase

Photo courtesy of Tancho Sushi

Tancho Sushi keeps things simple.

Austin had no shortage of beautiful sushi restaurants, but a new one at Lantana Place is doing drawing the trend away from the center of the city and sticking a lower price tag on the experience. Tancho Sushi, offering "everyday omakase," is now open at 7415 Southwest Parkway.

The thought of casual omakase feels like a bit of an oxymoron in Austin, where the service style — which tasks the chef with choosing what the diner will eat — is almost synonymous with something fancy and expensive. Factor in the interior design at Tancho, which certainly doesn't look pedestrian, and it's hard to believe it's actually an everyday meal.

But all things considered, these prices seem reasonable: $29 for the lightest dinner option, and capping out at a $59 feast. Lunch is even less expensive, starting at $24.

Tancho Sushi interior The airy space takes advantage of its surroundings outside of the city.Photo courtesy of Tancho Sushi

In some omakase experiences, the chef might factor in a diner's taste, the special ingredients that are available that day, and any number of other factors to determine what hits the table. But at Tancho, these prix fixe options are predetermined, doubtlessly contributing to the more accessible pricing.

The 50-seat restaurant also uses a clever marketing angle to get diners in who aren't necessarily experienced in sushi, or might otherwise be intimidated by letting a chef choose unfamiliar foods. "With thoughtfully curated preset menus, Tancho simplifies the dining experience by eliminating the guesswork so guests can focus on enjoying their meals," a press release announcing the opening says.

The release was sent November 22, but it looks like Tancho has been serving customers in a soft opening capacity for about a month, based on its Google reviews (which are stunningly high for a new restaurant at 4.7 stars).

Offerings at Tancho are simple.Photo courtesy of Tancho Sushi

Although each menu is different, there is a shared arc. All four experiences start with sunomono salad, a cucumber-based dish with red seaweed and sesame. Then there's tuna sashimi with smoked yuzu ponzu and scallions, and the rest depends on what the diner chooses.

Some standout items across the dinner service are sea bream on the light menu; akami (very red meat along the spine of a tuna) on the standard omakase menu; a lobster open hand roll on the rolls-only menu; and a tuna flight on the grand omakase menu.

No menu item is especially complicated. The focus is on doing each ingredient right, including the temperature the fish is served at and even the flavor of house-made soy sauce and ponzu.

“We keep the focus on the ingredients,” said co-founder Brad Van Otterloo in the release. “By stripping away unnecessary flourishes, we allow the quality of our fish to take center stage. This is a Texas-born concept through and through, and we’re proud to contribute to Austin’s growing sushi reputation.”

The open hand rolls are a signature for the restaurant.Photo courtesy of Tancho Sushi

Despite all this talk of omakase, it is possible to order à la carte items: some appetizers, nigiri (sliced fish on top of rice), and rolls. There's also a carefully curated beverage program, which largely focuses on sake. That includes the Kubota Manju or “Ten Thousand Celebrations" ($79), renowned in Japan for its complex layers and smooth mouthfeel.

“As Austin continues to grow, we wanted to introduce a fresh take on the sushi experience,” said Van Otterloo. “We’re here to make sushi approachable for Austinites while honoring the integrity of this cuisine. It’s about creating a space where everyone can discover and enjoy sushi at their own pace – no pressure, no pretense.”

Tancho Sushi exterior This restaurant is meant to be approachable.Image courtesy of Tancho Sushi

Tancho Sushi is located at 7415 Southwest Parkway, Building 4, Suite 300. It's open daily from 11 am to 10 pm, offering both dine-in and takeout. There are no reservations.

omakase sushi openings south austin