News You Can Eat

All-nighters at P. Terry's and a rosé party perk up Austin food news

Eberly's "Study" is the perfect venue for a day party fueled by rosé.

Photo courtesy of Eberly

As the days get longer and hotter, the tastiest treat in Austin is whatever makes things feel a bit easier. This week's food news is all about that, from extended hours at P. Terry's, to kids eating for free, to a wagyu burger that doesn't cost an arm and a leg.

Openings and closings

P. Terry’s Burger Stand, which is based in Austin, has opened its original location (404 S. Lamar Blvd.) up for 24/7 service. Despite a pandemic slump, 24/7 dining seems to be on the rise; this is the second P. Terry's to make the commitment, and Austin staple 24 Diner is also newly back in the all-day saddle. “Our Barton Springs location is where it all began," said co-founder and CEO Patrick Terry in a press release. "Turning this stand into a 24/7 operation during our 20th year feels both symbolic and exciting."

Austinites won't be able to visit this newly opened spot, but they'll reap the benefits. Lyssie Lou's Cookie Co. has moved into a commercial kitchen after a three-year search, which means the nostalgic frosted sugar cookies will be available for wholesale. Locals can find them daily at Parker and Scott (where they used to be available for weekly pick-ups) and West Pecan Coffee in Pflugerville.

An individually packaged treat by Lyssie Lou's Cookie Co.Photo courtesy of Lyssie Lou's Cookie Co.

ICYMI:

Since the last food news column, we got news of five food and beverage openings that we covered in more detail:

Midwest chocolate and ice cream shopKilwins is heading to a new mixed-use development in North Austin.
A futuristic conveyor belt sushi restaurant called Tora, an Aburi Sushi concept, is also coming to the same development.
Gourmet doughnut shopThe Salty is opening Friday, June 6, at the Domain Northside, making this the second Austin location.
West China Tea, a tea house with no local parallel, opened in its new permanent home, a 1940s house in East Austin.
Austin's leading ramen concept, Ramen Tatsu-ya, is opening its smallest-ever location on The Drag, with just a walk-up window.

Other news and notes

A fun new card deck is prompting Austin cocktail lovers to uncover some local secrets. Danny Goldstein, an Austin matchmaker, has developed Crux Dates: Speakeasy Edition, which presents 18 cards in total. There are seven cards that are specific to a local speakeasy, each with an off-menu cocktail, a conversation topic, and an action to do onsite. Then there are 10 more conversation cards and an instruction card. Even if you know Austin's speakeasies well enough to find them on your own, you'll still need to present the card to get the secret cocktail. Packs are $20 and well-designed, making for a nice gift. Drinks become available on June 15, and cards will be valid through September 15.

Dish Society, which just opened its second Austin location in March, is simplifying summer vacation with a kids-eat-free deal from now through July 31 at all locations. Each child 12 and under will get a free meal when paired with a purchased adult entrée, salad, or sandwich. Adults need to be loyalty program members, but it's free to join. Dish Society is known for healthy and homey meals.

Dish Society kids' dishes A look at the kids' menu at Dish Society.Photo courtesy of Dish Society

Austin is a casual place, but the local dining scene keeps upping the ante. Joining the fray is Little Woodrow's Bee Cave, part of a Texas bar chain that really leans into the aesthetic of a neighborhood pub. This particular location is launching a Wine & Wagyu Wednesdays deal that turns prized beef into a $7 smashburger and offers an expanded wine list including Meiomi Pinot Noir, La Crema Chardonnay, Miraval Rosé, and Chandon Brut. (We don't know Little Woodrow's pricing structure, but if the price perplexes you, remember that when super-expensive steaks are sold there's a lot more cow left on the chopping block.)

Eberly, an upscale restaurant on South Lamar Boulevard, invites guests back for the 7th annual Rosé Soirée on June 8 from noon to 5 pm. The guests of honor are more than 50 types of rosé from around the world, including Provence in France and Willamette Valley in Oregon. There will also be savory hors d’oeuvres by Chef Sarah Seghi and sweets by Pastry Chef Raven Breitfeller, a local artisan market, a photo booth, a raffle, and adoptable puppies. The event will benefit the Austin Humane Society. Tickets ($65.87) are available on Eventbrite.

Wine Win

Austin wine pro is the first winner of a new James Beard Award category

Photo by Huge Galdones

Arjav Ezekiel of Birdie's took home the first-ever Outstanding Professional in Beverage Service award.

One Texan finalist has emerged victorious in the national categories at the prestigious James Beard Awards. Arjav Ezekiel of Birdie's took home the award for Outstanding Professional in Beverage Service. This was more than an accomplishment of national importance; it was also the first time the award has ever been given.

The James Beard Foundation describes the winner as:

"A service professional who curates and serves wine, beer, or other offerings such as sake, low- and non-alcoholic beverages in a restaurant or bar setting; or winery, distillery or brewery that also serves food. Candidate has set high standards; demonstrates creativity and consistency in excellence, innovation, hospitality; is making efforts to create a sustainable work culture; and has served as an exceptional example or mentor for other beverage professionals."

Ezekiel certainly fits the bill. At Birdie's, a widely renowned restaurant bridging the gap between a casual atmosphere and fine dining, he and his wife, executive chef Tracy Malechek-Ezekiel, serve as dual faces for this feat of homey excellence. He's been nationally recognized for his achievements in wine by in Esquire, but is known locally for keeping the wine list and the restaurant as a whole accessible, focusing on hospitality above all, and always being ready on social media with a hot industry take.

Similarly, his acceptance speech touched on his personal connection to a hot political topic right now: immigration. As walk-off music started to swell over his speech, he playfully, but firmly refused to yield: "Guys, I'm finishing this speech."

“The story of how I ended up on this stage is an unlikely one but not an uncommon one,” said Ezekiel, as quoted by Restaurant Business. “It’s the story of undocumented immigrants. I remember feeling like the walls could close in at any minute when I was undocumented, the ever-present fear of having my family ripped away from me … For all the bad people in this world, my life has taught me there are far more good ones. Restaurant workers are the best of humanity.”

Ezekiel has not yet commented on the win on social media, but he has shared many posts by friends, many of whom were proud to shed tears at his speech.

Arjav Ezekiel discusses the win after the ceremony.Getty

Although Ezekiel claimed Texas' only national win, there is a category dedicated just to Texans. Best Chef: Texas went to Thomas Bille of Belly of the Beast in Spring, a suburb of Houston. Belly of the Beast specializes in global flavors and refined techniques, and came about because of a bold second try after the first iteration closed.

Three more Texans won special awards. Chad Houser, who founded Cafe Momentum in Dallas, received the Humanitarian of the Year Award. Houston-based journalist Toni Tipton-Martin, who was a founding member of the Southern Foodways Alliance and Foodways Texas, received the Lifetime Achievement Award.

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