news you can eat

BBQ biryani and a freshly relocated farmers market turn the tables of Austin food news

Texas Farmers’ Market is moving its Lakeway location to Cedar Park.

Photo courtesy of Texas Farmers’ Market

People, not food, are at the heart of Austin's food scene. What we care about comes first, and this week that includes our pets, the natural world of plants and veggies, and better conditions for hospitality workers — among many other things.

Openings and closings

The Austin-based C.L. Butaud Wines is one of the leading Texas wineries, with recognition from Texas Monthly, Forbes, and many other respected reviewers. Austinites may already be familiar with the black label, but a new way to get in touch with these wines is opening on May 4: a new tasting room at 415 East Saint Elmo Rd., Suite 4F. This relocation from far west Austin near Dripping Springs brings the company significantly closer to many Austinites. Opening day will include the regular wine flights and glass offerings, and La Bonne Merde is bringing fancy cheese from 1-5 pm. Reserve at clbutaud.com. New tasting room hours are Thursdays through Saturdays from 1-8 pm, and Sundays from 1-6 pm.

One of Austin's leading pop-ups for fresh veggies and artisan foods, Texas Farmers’ Market is moving its well-known Saturday market to a new location. Now the Lakeline market be housed in the Bell District development in Cedar Park. Although this move — about a 15-minute drive northwest — will be sad for Lakeline locals, the new location will supposedly have better parking, more shade, and more seating, plus good access to the new Cedar Park Public Library. Visit at 200 S. Bell Boulevard on Saturdays, starting May 25, from 9 am to 1 pm. This market will be open year-round.

Try Hard Coffee Roasters has closed unexpectedly after, according to the company's Instagram account, took on too much debt. Management set up a GoFundMe to help workers who had been let go; Community members questioned why staff were not given sufficient warning, and Try Hard replied, "[H]ad a loan lined up and it fell through. No money left, couldn’t ask our staff to work with no plan to pay them." The roaster known for its vinyl record sales is still following through on the latter pursuit, and says that more info is coming soon about who will be replacing the shop at 1115 E 11th St.

ICYMI: This past week was about fancy cocktail bars. Prélude, by Bocuse d’Or winner Chef Mathew Peters, is making a very chic debut on May 2, ahead of a larger restaurant coming in 2025. Meanwhile, something new is coming at Hotel Van Zandt, already known for its live music and cocktails at the rooftop restaurant Geraldine's. Now a new bar called Brass Poppy is being planted on the ground floor, along with a lobby redesign.

Other news and notes

Things are looking different than usual on the Distant Relatives menu on May 3, as Chef Damien Brockway hosts Chef Deepa Shridhar for a collaborative "BBQ Biryani popup." Brockway's food truck is known for its African-inspired slow roasts, and Shridar brings a South Indian flavor from her personal background and her Sicc Palette podcast for a unique crossover. The collaboration includes smoked oxtail or smoked chicken biryani, with sides like fried flat bread and pickles. There are no RSVPs — just go to the Distant Relatives food truck at Meanwhile Brewing (3901 Promontory Point Dr.).

Growing herbs for cooking and wellness is one of the most common gateways into gardening, and the American Botanical Council is ready to unlock it at its annual HerbDay celebration on May 4. The council is welcoming Austinites into its home of 35 years at 6200 Manor Rd. for a presentation "on the biological and spiritual co-evolution between hummingbirds, plants, and humans," plant walks with local herbalists, a medicinal plant sale, local vendor pop-ups, and children's activities. More information about the event and HerbDay is available at herbday.org.

Southern Smoke Foundation, founded by James Beard Award-winning Chef Chris Shepard to support hospitality workers, is teaming up with MML Hospitality for a 2024 partnership lasting "several months," and starting with a $40,000 donation. Shepard is cooking up a celebratory dinner on May 8 at Pecan Square Cafe, with the help of PSC's Chef Chelsea Fadda. The menu, served alongside the restaurant's regular menu, will include Korean-inspired braised goat dumplings and other tasty treats that haven't been announced yet. Reserve via OpenTable.

Emancipet, a nonprofit for low-cost veterinary care, is hosting a Paws & Plates Dog Dinner with both dog and people food at Central Machine Works on May 9. Dogs will get a five-course tasting menu, and humans can join in on frozen treats by Amy's Ice Creams. Supported by Tito’s Vodka for Dog People, Tomlinson’s Feed, and The Acre Dog Boarding & Daycare, this event will help raise funds for Emancipet nonprofit veterinary clinics. Tickets ($45) include a beer, a "photo moment," and the pup tasting menu. Reserve at emancipet.org.

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Omakase for Everyone

New South Austin restaurant swims against current of expensive omakase

Photo courtesy of Tancho Sushi

Tancho Sushi keeps things simple.

Austin had no shortage of beautiful sushi restaurants, but a new one at Lantana Place is doing drawing the trend away from the center of the city and sticking a lower price tag on the experience. Tancho Sushi, offering "everyday omakase," is now open at 7415 Southwest Parkway.

The thought of casual omakase feels like a bit of an oxymoron in Austin, where the service style — which tasks the chef with choosing what the diner will eat — is almost synonymous with something fancy and expensive. Factor in the interior design at Tancho, which certainly doesn't look pedestrian, and it's hard to believe it's actually an everyday meal.

But all things considered, these prices seem reasonable: $29 for the lightest dinner option, and capping out at a $59 feast. Lunch is even less expensive, starting at $24.

Tancho Sushi interior The airy space takes advantage of its surroundings outside of the city.Photo courtesy of Tancho Sushi

In some omakase experiences, the chef might factor in a diner's taste, the special ingredients that are available that day, and any number of other factors to determine what hits the table. But at Tancho, these prix fixe options are predetermined, doubtlessly contributing to the more accessible pricing.

The 50-seat restaurant also uses a clever marketing angle to get diners in who aren't necessarily experienced in sushi, or might otherwise be intimidated by letting a chef choose unfamiliar foods. "With thoughtfully curated preset menus, Tancho simplifies the dining experience by eliminating the guesswork so guests can focus on enjoying their meals," a press release announcing the opening says.

The release was sent November 22, but it looks like Tancho has been serving customers in a soft opening capacity for about a month, based on its Google reviews (which are stunningly high for a new restaurant at 4.7 stars).

Offerings at Tancho are simple.Photo courtesy of Tancho Sushi

Although each menu is different, there is a shared arc. All four experiences start with sunomono salad, a cucumber-based dish with red seaweed and sesame. Then there's tuna sashimi with smoked yuzu ponzu and scallions, and the rest depends on what the diner chooses.

Some standout items across the dinner service are sea bream on the light menu; akami (very red meat along the spine of a tuna) on the standard omakase menu; a lobster open hand roll on the rolls-only menu; and a tuna flight on the grand omakase menu.

No menu item is especially complicated. The focus is on doing each ingredient right, including the temperature the fish is served at and even the flavor of house-made soy sauce and ponzu.

“We keep the focus on the ingredients,” said co-founder Brad Van Otterloo in the release. “By stripping away unnecessary flourishes, we allow the quality of our fish to take center stage. This is a Texas-born concept through and through, and we’re proud to contribute to Austin’s growing sushi reputation.”

The open hand rolls are a signature for the restaurant.Photo courtesy of Tancho Sushi

Despite all this talk of omakase, it is possible to order à la carte items: some appetizers, nigiri (sliced fish on top of rice), and rolls. There's also a carefully curated beverage program, which largely focuses on sake. That includes the Kubota Manju or “Ten Thousand Celebrations" ($79), renowned in Japan for its complex layers and smooth mouthfeel.

“As Austin continues to grow, we wanted to introduce a fresh take on the sushi experience,” said Van Otterloo. “We’re here to make sushi approachable for Austinites while honoring the integrity of this cuisine. It’s about creating a space where everyone can discover and enjoy sushi at their own pace – no pressure, no pretense.”

Tancho Sushi exterior This restaurant is meant to be approachable.Image courtesy of Tancho Sushi

Tancho Sushi is located at 7415 Southwest Parkway, Building 4, Suite 300. It's open daily from 11 am to 10 pm, offering both dine-in and takeout. There are no reservations.

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