This Beer is Back

Central Texas' K. Spoetzl Brewery revives beer last seen in 1960s

K. Spoetzl Brewery's Texas Special is back. Rendering courtesy of K. Spoetzl Brewery

A classic Texas beer brand is making a comeback after succumbing to post-Prohibition woes. The K. Spoetzl Brewery, best known as the maker of Shiner Bock, has reintroduced its Texas Special American-style lager and added Texas Special Light on draft. It is only available in Texas.

Cans and packs ($13.99 for a 12-pack of 12-ounce cans) will be available on March 2. The rollout is timed to coincide with Texas Independence Day, a fitting gesture considering the story the brand tells about history through beer.

According to a press release, Texas Special was brewed to celebrate the end of Prohibition in 1933. It stayed in production until the 60s, but the independent brewers couldn't keep up with the "aggressive pricing and tactics" of larger beer operations across the country.

A blog post from the History Channel explains that large brewing companies like Anheuser-Busch, Coors, Miller, Pabst, and Yuengling survived Prohibition because they invested in property at the beginning of the era (around 1920) and pivoted to non-alcoholic drink sales.

Now that competition is back in craft beers, so is Texas Special. The release calls it a "smooth, easy-drinking beer."

The recipe has been touched up since its last iteration. Texas Special is made with artesian well water and premium grains for a 4.4 percent ABV product that the release describes as crisp and smooth, with some malt sweetness and "a delicate floral hop note." It has a light body and moderate carbonation.

Taking things even lighter, Texas Special Light is 4.0 percent ABV and 98 calories. It is slightly less bitter with similar, but subtler notes. While the release recommends pairing the original with Texas barbecue (smoked brisket, ribs, and sausage, specifically), it reserves lighter fare like barbecue chicken and Texas Gulf Seafood.

Some visual changes have also updated the brand: the beer's provenance is on full display with "Texas" appearing in larger letters and an added star on the map to indicate where it is brewed.

“We’re proud to bring back this iconic beer, along with its lighter counterpart, for a new generation,” said K. Spoetzl's director of marketing, Nick Weiland, in the release. “Texas Special and Texas Special Light perfectly embody the spirit of Texas pride and craftsmanship. These beers are ideal for those who appreciate life’s simple joys and good, honest drinking.”

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From underdog to squid

Austin restaurant replacing Underdog blends French and Texan cuisine

Le Calamar Austin grilled trout and raw tuna espelette

Le Calamar seems to have the same plating prowess as its predecessor. Photo courtesy of Le Calamar

When Korean wine bar Underdog announced its unexpected closure in February, fans were assured in the same fell swoop that a new concept was coming from the same restaurateurs. However, the team hadn't announced what the change would entail until now: Le Calamar, a French restaurant with Texan twists, is the replacement expected in May 2025.

Claudia Lee and Richard Hargreave explained when Underdog closed that it wasn't an issue with the restaurant's success. In fact, it had been very popular, and was even recognized by both the New York Times and World's 50 Best. However, they did feel that the concept didn't quite match the space, which called for a more casual neighborhood restaurant.

Apparently, they're taking the new opportunity as a completely fresh start with an entirely new cuisine. Perhaps this has to do with Chef Casey Wall, who Lee and Hargreave alluded to in their closing statement, but didn't name. Finding the right partner was what convinced the Underdog restaurateurs that it was time for a change, they said.

Left to right: Le Calamar owners Claudia Lee and Richard HargreavePhoto courtesy of Le Calamar

Wall and Hargreave have been friends for 14 years, according to a new press release, having met at celebrity chef David Chang's now-closed Momofuku Seiobo in Sydney, Australia — the North Carolina-born Wall worked there, and Hargreave was just visiting. Wall's résumé includes work at Le Cirque in New York and founding Bar Liberty in Melbourne, plus other esteemed bars and restaurants: Falco, Capitano, and Above Board. He's returning to the United States specifically for Le Calamar.

“Coming back to America after 15 years specifically for this project feels like both a homecoming and an exciting new beginning,” said Wall in the release. “The opportunity to work with Richard and Claudia to create a place that explores the incredible ingredients and spirit of Texas, while embracing my culinary experiences, was simply too compelling to pass up.”

As promised, Le Calamar is where "refined technique meets unpretentious hospitality in a relaxed, casual setting," says the release. The menu is modeled after that of a French bistro, with Texas ingredients added in: oysters charentaise with Texas hot links; grilled trout with brown butter, almond, and guajillo. A daily meat selection will be cooked over charcoal, while a steak tartare capitalizes on the trendy raw snack.

A pastry program does the same, emphasizing local ingredients. The release gives as an example the "baked Texas" with pecan, banana, and local honey.

For beverages, expect something sophisticated and based on the minutia of the menu. Presumably, fans of the former wine bar have an idea of what that might entail.

“What excites me most about Le Calamar is the chance to curate a beverage program that mirrors the culinary influences in the menu, with a focus on three regions – France, Mexico, and Texas [—] creating unexpected connections that complement our cuisine,” said Hargreave in the release. “I’ve always looked for value in wine, finding bottles that deliver more than their price suggests. These selections, along with our cocktail program, are designed to be approachable yet exciting, just like the food we’re creating.”

There's also a new look inside the building at 1600 S. First Street in Austin, as envisioned by designer Bruce Curtis of KissMyArt. Having been a regular at Underdog, Curtis was well-prepared to transform the space, to which he applied "a cinematic vision" including olive walls and stained concrete floors. The bar will seat 12 in addition to a dining room and patio seating, and a "Western-inspired instrumental soundtrack" ties it all together.

“Le Calamar is a love letter to our favorite neo-bistros of Paris that opened our eyes to what a modern day restaurant could be,” said Lee. “We’re creating a transportive experience — an ode to the modern French bistro through a distinctly Texas lens."

Le Calamar will be open Thursdays through Mondays from 4 pm until "late" and Fridays through Sundays from noon to 3 pm. Takeout will only be available during lunch hours.

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