The Whole Hog

High-profile national barbecue competition enlists stellar Austin talent

Cochon 555's Heritage BBQ heads to Austin this fall.

While the weather may not indicate it, fall food event season is about to hit Austin with intensity. The months following Labor Day are undeniably the biggest foodie months of the year, as sip-and-strolls and special events showcase the cooling weather and the new fall menus of the chefs and bartenders behind the tables.

New to the lineup this year is Cochon 555's Heritage BBQ, a high-profile touring national barbecue competition that pits five Texas chefs in a fierce competition to prepare six pork dishes each. The party happens on Sunday, September 28 at W Austin.

The chef lineup is formidable: Paul Qui and Dustin Harvey (East Side King, qui), Daniel Olivella (Barlata), Ned Elliott (Foreign & Domestic), Justin Yu (Houston's Oxheart) and Mat Clouser and Zack Northcutt (Swift's Attic) are all confirmed to compete. The chefs will prepare their dishes using a 200 pound heritage breed pig (the event emphasizes both local sourcing and nose-to-tail cooking in a effort to promote a "hyper-local, globally themed barbecue culture").

The five chefs won't have a monopoly on the gluttony though. Organizers have recruited Houston legend Ronnie Killen to serve his outstanding Texas beef ribs, which may in itself be enough reason to attend (they're perhaps the best barbecue bites we've eaten this year). Bryan Butler of Salt & Time will also be doing a dish and a pop-up butcher shop at the party, with proceeds benefiting students at Le Cordon Bleu. Chefs from TRACE, The Salty Sow and Feges BBQ will also each do dishes. There will also be "welcome ribs" from Berkwood Berkshire Farms. We're of the mind that this means guests will be handed a rib at the door, which sounds both fantastic and hilarious.

On the beverage side, whiskey takes center stage. Offerings from Eagle Rare, Buffalo Trace, Four Roses, Templeton Rye, and Glenrothes will all be at the bar, as will Crispin Ciders, Anakota wines and Goose Island beers. Tickets to the party are $100 for general admission and $200 for VIP, and are available here. If you're considering the event, here's a video of highlights from the 2013 tour.

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Whoops

Michelin goofs on a few restaurants honored in first Texas guide

Kau Ba/Facebook

Houston's Kau Ba has been removed from the Michelin Guide.

Texans' reactions to the first Michelin Guide in the state have ranged from glowing to unimpressed, but a few notable mix-ups are more concrete than differences in taste. The November 11 ceremony honored more than 100 restaurants across the state, but at least two were in error. In Dallas the guide confused two restaurants with each other, and in Houston one of them had closed.

Starting in Dallas: The Guide's release announcing the list of restaurants who'd won awards included The Charles, an award-winning Italian restaurant in Dallas' Design District, as one of 57 restaurants that earned a "Recommended" rating.

The Charles is a surely deserving restaurant that opened in 2018, the first concept from acclaimed food & beverage group Duro Hospitality, which has since gone on to open other restaurants such as El Carlos Elegante, Sister, and Cafe Duro.

But the Guide got the wrong Charles: The real recipient was Mister Charles, a sibling Duro Hospitality restaurant that opened at 3219 Knox St. in early 2024.

The Charles specializes in Italian and Texas-inspired dishes.

Mister Charles features French and Italian-influenced dishes.

It wasn't just an incorrect name; it listed the accompanying (incorrect) address.

A spokesperson for Michelin Guide verified that Mister Charles was the winner and said that the listing of The Charles was a mistake.

“This was an internal error caused by our geolocation process. The problem will be corrected in the most expeditious manner,” the spokesperson said. The Guide website has since updated the list and replaced The Charles with Mister Charles.

Having a difference of opinion about a critic's choices is one thing — but having an error of this magnitude is something else entirely.

And blaming "geolocation" as the source of the error is a curious excuse. Geolocation refers to the ability to track the whereabouts of an electronic device using GPS, cell phone towers, WiFi access points or a combination of these.

The Houston mix-up was also disappointing, but only involved one restaurant: In a press release issued Thursday, November 14, the Guide announced that it had removed Montrose Vietnamese restaurant Kau Ba from the list of Bib Gourmand recipients.

The reason: "Upon further investigation, our team has discovered the restaurant has been permanently closed since our Inspection team's visits occurred," the statement reads.

As has been widely noted in local media, Kau Ba closed earlier this month. The restaurant’s Instagram account now belongs to Alora, which is described as “a fresh Peruvian-Vietnamese fusion concept inspired by travels to Saigon.” It is expected to open soon.

Open since 2018, Kau Ba served an innovative take on Vietnamese fare created by Nikki Tran. The restaurant built on the notoriety Tran had achieved after being featured in two Netflix series: Somebody Feed Phil and Ugly Delicious. It earned considerable acclaim, including a spot in the Houston Chronicle’s top 100 restaurants as recently as 2023 and a nomination for Best Neighborhood Restaurant in the 2021 CultureMap Tastemaker Awards.

The restaurant went through a number of iterations during its tenure. For three-and-a-half years, Tran partnered with Aya Sushi owners Minette Corpuz and Bruce Kish to oversee operations, but they parted ways in February 2023.

In an email sent to Houston Public Media, Tran expressed regret over Michelin's decision.

“But we understand and respect Michelin’s decision to remove Kau Ba from its selection,” Tran said to HPM. “Exercising an abundance of caution from a legal position, I am not able currently to share further details of our situation but I do hope to follow up soon with more information.”

“Until then, on behalf of the entire Kau Ba team, we want to thank the entire culinary community for the recognition and support,” Tran added. “Kau Ba is proud of the dishes we created and look forward to sharing very soon what’s next.”

Thankfully in Austin, things seem to be going okay. The capital city swept the competition with seven stars (one more than Houston now that the change has been made), and two green stars for sustainability — in fact, the only green stars in the state.

Austin also had four of the first-ever barbecue restaurants to be awarded stars. Houston also had one.

Austin's winning restaurants were Barley Swine, Craft Omakase, Hestia, Olamaie, InterStellar BBQ, John Bates, La Barbecue, Alison Clem, and LeRoy and Lewis Barbecue.

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