Dining Picks
Where to Eat in April: Spring menus, craft cocktail-eries and an old classic
Classic Club Sandwich from Barlett's
Drink WellPhoto by Jessica Pages
Fino
Barley SwinePhoto courtesy of Barley Swine
They say April showers bring May flowers. But our showers seem to have arrived early this year, bringing Austin a bounty for fresh spring ingredients to inspire chef and diner appetites alike. This month we celebrate the newness of spring with a new watering hole in the North Loop area, a couple of restaurants revealing fresh new spring menus, and an oldie-but-a-goodie that has proved its mettle over the past year under a new name—but with the same old soul.
With all the media attention chef/owner Bryce Gilmore has received for his culinary talent — Food & Wine, Texas Monthly, James Beard — it’s no wonder there’s a regular line of eager patrons waiting outside the door of his restaurant Barley Swine before this compact neighborhood spot opens its doors. The key is to try to dine here on a Tuesday or Wednesday to avoid the throng of people on the weekend. What I love about Barley Swine is what a lot of people may hate: no reservations. You get a spot here on a first-come-first-serve basis no matter who you are, which makes it a fair shake for anyone who wants to dine here. (Especially with plates at an affordable $8-$15).
Gilmore and his team do beautiful work making something as simple as scrambled eggs divine with goat feta, pines nuts and broccoli. Asparagus soup with pickled oyster mushrooms is silky and savory with the addition of crispy beer batter fritters. Coffee-rubbed brisket is delivered with modern updates to traditional the barbecue fixin's — cole slaw, potato salad and a smokey baked bean puree. Desserts such as the chocolate semi-freddo and goat cheese parfait and strawberry vanilla-chiffon cake pair wonderfully with the diverse wine and beer list.
For starters, I’d wager they have the best fries in the city. (Well, they’re at least in the top five for best fries.) For those with a long Austin history, you’ll remember Bartlett’s as the former Houston’s, a national chain restaurant at the corner of Burnett Road and Anderson Lane for more than 20 years. For all intents and purposes, Bartlett’s is essentially the same restaurant. It was purchased out of the franchise by owner Tim Bartlett in 2010 and runs as a completely independent operation with many of the same menu items from Houston’s, and a few new items as well. And thankfully, the fries are every bit as good as before.
But you’ll also find a nice variety of soups, salads and items from the grill. You can’t go wrong with their grilled fish of the day — usually something seasonal and fresh like red snapper — especially when served with cous cous, tomato and almond salad on the side. When I’m feeling really indulgent, I go straight for the baby back ribs basted with sweet barbecue glaze, and of course, a side of fries.
It may not be brand new, and it may not have jumped on the band wagon of marketing itself as a resto using only local and seasonal ingredients like so many other restaurants have. But if you’re looking for a good place for a business lunch or a nice dinner out, keep Bartlett’s on your short list for good, flavorful food and excellent service. They say “the more things change, the more they stay the same.” In the case of Bartlett’s, I’d say that’s a very good thing.
Drink.Well. opened about a month ago to an eager community of cocktail fans looking for a hip North Loop bar to haunt. For the first week or two, owners Jessica and Michael Sanders were overwhelmed with business, prompting them to seek out a few well-skilled "guest" bartenders including Adam Bryan (Eastside Show Room, Congress Bar and the soon-to-come Motel bar) and David Alan (Tipsy Texan).
So how are things for the little corner bar now that it's had a good few weeks to get its bearings? Swimmingly. Especially if you're talking about the steady current of boozy (and not-so-boozy) cocktails flowing from this place. You can easily grab the old vodka-tonic standby here, but you're missing out if you're not sampling from the diverse menu of craft cocktails with everything from the classic tart-and-tangy Gin Gimlet to the refreshing Royale with Ease made with grapefruit juice, hibiscus, lime and a smooth hit of absinthe. (Don't worry, this pretty pink little cocktail isn't potent enough to invite visions of that pesky green fairy.)
Yes, this place is a neighborhood bar — and a pretty cool one at that — but you can also nosh on some fun snacks, too. House made potato chips with jalapeño creamed-corn dip are delish, as is a creative zucchini "bacon," lettuce and tomato sandwich on crisp bread. For the kid in all of us, there's a thick-cut bologna sandwich served on Texas Toast with white cheddar as well as daily selection of homemade Twinkies, including banana bread with Nutella and yellow cake-orange dreamsicle — fun! (Space is limited, so be prepared for standing room only on busy nights.)
Fino has always been a reliable spot for its great atmosphere and generally consistent food. With its natural breezeway and slatted shutter shading, the patio alone is the ideal space for a refreshing summer lunch or an early evening cocktail — especially when it's made by celebrated Austin cocktail craftsman Josh Loving. On a recent visit, I found a new spring menu in full swing with a bright and flavorful tzatziki with fresh mint and warm pita bread and a peppery grilled prawn small plate with chickpea puree and a citrusy herb salad.
The sweet and velvety agnolotti pasta with rich cream and roasted baby carrots was the perfect celebration of the young root vegetables. And nothing says spring more than lamb, which chef Jason Donaho is serving in a heavenly risotto with sweet caramelized onions and toasted pine nuts.
Cocktails were smooth, flavorful and executed with precision. If you like boozy whiskey drinks, you’ll swoon over Baby’s First Punch made with a number of distinct ingredients including rye and early grey tea, and if you love the smokiness from mezcal, ask for the “Secret,” a bold, yet not-too-assertive off-the-menu tequila and mezcal concoction served up.
Although I arrived a tad to late to enjoy the new happy hour specials, I’ll look forward to returning for a few snacks and the $1 Sherry specials — the perfect way to introduce yourself to a classic Spanish style of wine. (The straight info: FINO’s happy hour is now 4 - 6 p.m., Monday through Friday. Specials include $1 Sherry, 1/2 priced Sparkling, Rose, and aperitif wine, $2 off the cocktail list and beer, and $2 off all tapas.)
Have you ever seen tres leches look so pretty? (Pictured: matcha tres leches atPhoto by Amber Heckler
Sometimes you can just see that a taco is perfect. (Pictured: birria tacos with cheese at Palo Seco 512)Photo by Brianna Caleri