Alice Waters famously made the statement “What grows together, goes together,” and for many who might understand this truth for reasons far less simplified, the clarity in her words exposed the reader and the cook to a vast consideration of similar partnerships.
To witness this, seasonal gardens can be combined in almost any way, but rarely do I think the lesson applies as beautifully than as with Ratatouille--the slow simmering summer liaison of onion, sweet pepper, eggplant, zucchini and tomatoes. I can assure that though heaven can be tasted in the simplicity of a perfect tomato and nothing can compare to the eggplants depth and complexity, when united, the individualistic elements in the cast form a play that is deeply humanistic.
There are many variations on Ratatouille, but to understand what turns the simple ingredients into a legendary dish, it would be necessary to start with a classic version. When doing so, the lessons one learns from each ingredient in its relationship to the whole also make this dish a fine tool in understanding the fundamental properties of our most versatile summer crops.
The points to consider when making a Ratatouille:
- Olive Oil is not just preferred, it is essential. Consider it the stock. A good quality extra-virgin oil is best and for a standard preparation of Ratatouille--enough for 4 main or 8 coursed servings--it isn’t unusual to use 2 cups of olive oil in the process.
- Allow plenty of time for each vegetable to sweat independently before moving on. The process of cooking from start to finish should last no less than one hour as it roughly takes the onions and peppers about 5-7 minutes each, the zucchini about 10 minutes and the eggplant about 12 minutes before giving the entire stew another 20-30 minutes of slow cooking.
- On seasoning seeded vegetables, be gentle with seasoning before hand as they wilt easily. Should you find your eggplant a little too old or large or the growing season dry, take them and once sliced, sprinkle with salt and leave in a colander for a half hour before rinsing well. I prefer to salt each round of vegetables as they cook with ½ tsp or so of kosher salt and a pinch of fine pepper for a total use of 2 ½ tsp. If using a finer sea salt such as fleur de sel, the same can be substituted. Oftentimes, the acidity of the tomatoes will mask the level of saltiness, so it's best to taste near the end, once the stew is almost complete. If necessary add a tsp of sugar to balance.
- Since tomatoes and zucchini are actually classified as fruits, they can easily be bitter instead of sweet, develop an inconsistent texture and, in the case of zucchini if left to ripen for too long on their plant, develop seeds that are either too large or too tough to be edible. It is possible to cook around any of these issues, but it's necessary to know how. For instance, if it has been an unusually dry and hot season, the tomatoes might come earlier and in larger quantities, but their flesh will often be poor from with the intense and rapid ripening so sugar might be well needed or even the addition of a touch of vinegar to provide the necessary acidity. Additionally, without much rain and if picked too large, eggplant and zucchini can develop large and tough seeds that need to be removed before using for this dish.
- There are many variations that can be added such as the addition of anchovies, mushrooms and olives but I am focusing on the simple combination as I find that the beauty of this dish lies in the simplicity of the ingredients that grow together.
Begin with 2 medium size onions, 2 large sweet red peppers, 3 medium size zucchini, 3 medium size eggplant or 2 large ones, 4 tomatoes and 4-5 cloves of garlic.
Slice your onions into thin ribbons, the eggplant and zucchini into rounds and then cubes, seed and dice the peppers and finely chop your garlic. Set aside without combing. Quarter the tomatoes, tasting for their sweetness and texture.
In a small saucepan, add 3 parts olive oil to 1 part vinegar- about ⅓ cup to 2 tbsp--either balsamic or red wine vinegar is preferred. On a low flame add half the garlic. Once the garlic begins to release its aroma and the vinegar snaps a bit, add the tomatoes and with the back of a fork or pototoe masher, roughly press the tomatoes into the vinegarette. Allow the tomatoes to cook slowly--about 10 minutes. Season with 1 tsp of salt and if necessary, a tsp of sugar. Set aside.
Meanwhile, take a large stock pot or a large deep sided stainless steel saute pan and over medium low heat, add ¼ of cup of olive oil and the onions. Season as noted above. Once the onions have melted and are limp if picked up with a fork, add in the peppers and repeat the process.
Next add the zucchini and, once it has softened well, add the eggplant and allow to cook for 10-12 minutes, adding more olive oil if necessary. Once the eggplant has softened, add in the remainder of the garlic, the reserved tomato sauce and another ¼ cup of olive oil if necessary. The “stock” of the dish being the olive oil, will reduce slightly but provide an elegant and luxurious base which will take on the color of the stew.
Allow the mixture to cook slowly for at least twenty minutes, preferably forty. Checking the bottom of the pan from time to time, scrape along any bits that are stuck. Once cooked, allow to cool and settle for a few hours before serving. Ratatouille is a dish highly recommended for use the next day and can be served warm or cold and shines in a lovely rustic tart. Serve with a good Rosé such as a Cassis Bandol or a Tavel from the Rhone Valley.
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