When Korean wine bar Underdog announced its unexpected closure in February, fans were assured in the same fell swoop that a new concept was coming from the same restaurateurs. However, the team hadn't announced what the change would entail until now: Le Calamar, a French restaurant with Texan twists, is the replacement expected in May 2025.

Claudia Lee and Richard Hargreave explained when Underdog closed that it wasn't an issue with the restaurant's success. In fact, it had been very popular, and was even recognized by both the New York Times and World's 50 Best. However, they did feel that the concept didn't quite match the space, which called for a more casual neighborhood restaurant.

Apparently, they're taking the new opportunity as a completely fresh start with an entirely new cuisine. Perhaps this has to do with Chef Casey Wall, who Lee and Hargreave alluded to in their closing statement, but didn't name. Finding the right partner was what convinced the Underdog restaurateurs that it was time for a change, they said.

Left to right: Le Calamar owners Claudia Lee and Richard HargreavePhoto courtesy of Le Calamar

Wall and Hargreave have been friends for 14 years, according to a new press release, having met at celebrity chef David Chang's now-closed Momofuku Seiobo in Sydney, Australia — Hargreave worked there, and Wall was just visiting. Wall's résumé includes work at Le Cirque in New York and founding Bar Liberty in Melbourne, plus other esteemed bars and restaurants: Falco, Capitano, and Above Board. He's returning to the United States specifically for Le Calamar.

“Coming back to America after 15 years specifically for this project feels like both a homecoming and an exciting new beginning,” said Wall in the release. “The opportunity to work with Richard and Claudia to create a place that explores the incredible ingredients and spirit of Texas, while embracing my culinary experiences, was simply too compelling to pass up.”

As promised, Le Calamar is where "refined technique meets unpretentious hospitality in a relaxed, casual setting," says the release. The menu is modeled after that of a French bistro, with Texas ingredients added in: oysters charentaise with Texas hot links; grilled trout with brown butter, almond, and guajillo. A daily meat selection will be cooked over charcoal, while a steak tartare capitalizes on the trendy raw snack.

A dessert program does the same, emphasizing local ingredients. The release gives as an example the "baked Texas" with pecan, banana, and local honey.

For beverages, expect something sophisticated and based on the minutia of the menu. Presumably, fans of the former wine bar have an idea of what that might entail.

“What excites me most about Le Calamar is the chance to curate a beverage program that mirrors the culinary influences in the menu, with a focus on three regions – France, Mexico, and Texas [—] creating unexpected connections that complement our cuisine,” said Hargreave in the release. “I’ve always looked for value in wine, finding bottles that deliver more than their price suggests. These selections, along with our cocktail program, are designed to be approachable yet exciting, just like the food we’re creating.”

There's also a new look inside the building at 1600 S. First Street in Austin, as envisioned by designer Bruce Curtis of KissMyArt. Having been a regular at Underdog, Curtis was well-prepared to transform the space, to which he applied "a cinematic vision" including olive walls and stained concrete floors. The bar will seat 12 in addition to a dining room and patio seating, and a "Western-inspired instrumental soundtrack" ties it all together.

“Le Calamar is a love letter to our favorite neo-bistros of Paris that opened our eyes to what a modern day restaurant could be,” said Lee. “We’re creating a transportive experience — an ode to the modern French bistro through a distinctly Texas lens."

Le Calamar will be open Thursdays through Mondays from 4 pm until "late" and Fridays through Sundays from noon to 3 pm. Takeout will only be available during lunch hours.