Family Feuds
Legendary Lockhart barbecue families tell all in new documentary
The Barb's B Q team poses with Kent Black from Black's BBQ in 2023, representing two very different factions of Lockhart barbecue.
However relaxing a day smoking meats sounds, the increasingly competitive nature of Lockhart's famous barbecue scene has generated enough drama for a 90-minute documentary. Family Beef, made by KXAN-TV, follows the Central Texas town's top barbecue families through hard-earned success and personal history. It'll premiere on streaming services on Thursday, June 5.
A press release teases that the documentary "dives into the smoky, high-stakes world of Texas barbecue, where legacy, pride, and family feuds are as rich as the brisket." Interviews will get behind the scenes at Black’s Barbecue, Terry Black’s, Kreuz Market, Smitty’s Market, and Barb’s B Q.
Although there are many ways to measure success in the barbecue world, this documentary focuses on Texas Monthly's Top 50 BBQ list — a timely topic, since the publication only updates the list every four years and presented its current picks on May 27. Barbecue editor Daniel Vaughn will appear in the film as a guide.
Of course much of the drama comes from the famous Black's-Terry Black's feud, but some more comes from a "new player" shaking things up as the traditional stars compete to maintain dominance. The release remains mysterious about the newbie, but it is safe to assume it's Barb's, the youngest and least traditional operation listed above. Barb's opened in May 2023, and has created waves in the New York Times, Bon Appétit, Southern Living, the Michelin Guide, and more.
Beyond the more granular topics in the film is a salient debate about tradition and history versus innovation — something nearly unavoidable for barbecue fans reading the menu at a newer establishment. Things are changing in barbecue, even in Lockhart, where Kreuz Market opened in 1900.
“Family Beef is more than a barbecue story — it’s about identity, community, and the deep ties that hold (and sometimes divide) families,” said KXAN-TV vice president and general manager Eric Lassberg in the release. “We’re thrilled to bring this Texas story to the big screen, right here at home.”
Family Beef will be available to stream exclusively on KXAN+, which can be accessed via Roku, Fire TV, and Apple TV.
The Homunculi lights the way with a frothy top layer.Photo by Brianna Caleri