Fake Fish, Real Meat

Austin sushi restaurant debuts lab-grown salmon made from fish cells

OTOKO is the first and only place in Texas to offer Wildtype's cultivated salmon.

Photo courtesy of OTOKO

Austin once again finds itself paving the way for a new technology; this time not in a cowboy-hat wearing robot or self-driving car, but in food. Acclaimed omakase restaurant Otoko is now offering cultivated salmon by a company called Wildtype. It's a sushi-grade salmon lab-made — rather than farmed or caught in the sea — from genuine salmon cells.

This makes Otoko the first and only place in Texas to feature this delicious and eco-friendly new protein, but it'll only be around for a limited time.

The Texas legislature recently passed a ban on lab-grown proteins, which prohibits the "manufacture, processing, possession, distribution, offering for sale, or sale of cell-cultured protein." The law goes into effect September 1 and sunsets in 2027.

"While Otoko is thrilled to explore such groundbreaking innovation, the restaurant is also committed to abiding by the recent changes in Texas legislation," the restaurant said in a statement by email. "Those interested in trying Wildtype are encouraged to visit before September 1."

There are lots of reasons beyond curiosity to try it while it's available.

"It's more environmentally friendly, has no parasites, overfishing, or microplastics," says Otoko head sushi chef Bigler Cruz. "We're trying to help educate our guests that other options are available and that we, as a restaurant, are conscious of our impact on the environment."

According to Cruz, this cultivated salmon saku (a cut without skin or bones) tastes like wild salmon, and will be offered as part of Otoko's classic omakase services, prepared fresh nightly. Specifically, the Wildtype salmon is included in the hamachi binchotan (grilled yellowtail) dish, so that "guests can see how we use the salmon side-by-side with another type of fish," says Cruz.

Of course, Wildtype also turned a camera on Otoko's always-engaging executive chef, Yoshi Okai.

At Otoko, there are a few types of experiences guests should know before making an omakase reservation. Below are the options between now and September 30:

Classic omakase: A 20-course Kyoto-style kaiseki (structured) omakase experience featuring a blend of nigiri and sashimi, alongside a variety of hot and cold Japanese dishes. Available for one to four guests.
Sushi omakase: A Tokyo-style sushi omakase dinner, only available on Wednesdays, featuring a specially-curated selection of nigiri and sashimi throughout 20 courses. Available for one to six guests.
Kaiseki-ryori: A 15-course kaiseki omakase experience, available every first Thursday of the month. This is a shortened version of the classic omakase experience with a lower price tag. Available for one to four guests.

The Wildtype salmon won't be replacing the fish used at Otoko; it will just be included in the hamachi binchotan. Though perhaps someday, it will hold a larger place on Otoko's menu, and other menus around town.

"As awareness around sustainability and food transparency grows, we’ll definitely see more cultivated options on menus," says Cruz. "It’s just the beginning of a major shift in how we think about seafood and protein."

Already in Austin, we've seen a similar shift. Just in the past 30 days, Austin taco window Taco Pegaso debuted an all-veggie menu and the upscale BOA Steakhouse announced its new "beyond steak filet." This plant-based fillet is made to taste just like real steak, and even has the 28 grams of protein that many veggie options lack.

Otoko is located at the South Congress Hotel at 1603 S. Congress Ave.

sustainability innovation chefs

Out to Pasture

New hotel and restaurant open at historic Austin 'pastures'

Photo by Casey Dunn

Henry's gives a chic, updated look to an old property.

Mattie's at Green Pastures, a Southern restaurant on a historic property with famous peacocks, already felt like a retreat from the more urban parts of Austin. Now the property at 811 W. Live Oak St. has reached its hospitality potential with the addition of the Inn at Green Pastures, with 63 new guest rooms, a private pool, a lounge, a bar, and even a whole new restaurant called Henry's. Room reservations will open Friday, December 12.

The Green Pastures property in the Bouldin Creek neighborhood used to cover 50 rural acres, but now it's down to seven — still a healthy size considering its always-changing surroundings. The pièce de résistance is a 120-year-old Victorian farmhouse that was built by local minister and physician Dr. Eugene W. Herndon and later purchased by lawyer Henry Faulk, who moved his family in and ran the surrounding land as a farm.

By 1946, the owner's daughter Mary Faulk Koock and her husband, Chester Koock, turned the home into a restaurant — the first racially integrated restaurant in Austin, according to Green Pastures — and more family members stewarded the property until it was sold by a local investment group of more than 100 members in 2015. The restaurant became Mattie's in 2017.

The biggest news for Austinites is the new restaurant, which will be open day-to-night for morning coffee service, snacks, full meals, and cocktails. For now, it's just open from 4-11 pm, and will open in its full capacity starting December 12.

Foodies can still get the famous mini-biscuits from Mattie's, plus hot smoked salmon on a bagel, a hotdog with relish, a burger using beef from Grassfield Farm in Hondo (about 50 miles west of San Antonio), and grilled redfish with German potato salad. These dishes will be served in the restaurant as well as to guests in their rooms. Small plates like charcuterie boards and oysters will be available at the pool.

Henry's at Green Pastures hotdog Not everything at Green Pastures is fancy.Photo by Jessica Stephens

Cocktails aren't relegated to the nighttime hours. Guests can order a breakfast martini with gin, red berry liqueur, lemon and strawberry jam; then they can come back at lunch or dinner for a Hugo Spritz or a signature cocktail. Draft cocktails like an Artemis Cup, Back Porch Tea, and Espresso Martini keep things simple and can be served without alcohol.

For travelers and staycationers, the guest rooms and nine suites in the newly constructed, three-story hotel offer a "quiet, restorative retreat," according to a press release. Both room styles show off high ceilings and windows that maximize that height, plus hardwood floors, marble sinks, anddeep bathtubs. The suites are all named after wildlife that might be found on the property, and the building is shaped like an "L" to work around existing live oaks. Even parking is out of the way, hidden underground.

Inn at Green Pastures guest rooms The guest rooms keep things simple and serene.Photo by Casey Dunn

The new structure was designed by the highly regarded local architecture firm Clayton Korte. Its many recognizable projects include other historically sensitive builds, like major renovations just announced in November at Austin's Paramount and State Theatres. On the interior, local design studio Noah Marion is responsible for leather goods around the property including catchall tray, decor, games, apparel, and more that will all be for sale to guests.

Completing the resort feel, a luxury spa is planned for a 2028 opening.

Finally, the property will also be available for events, including weddings, with access to its gardens, event hall at Mattie's, and Green Pastures ballroom. A cottage also provides a space to get ready for the events to come.

Inn at Green Pastures The new addition looks nothing like the Victorian farmhouse it accompanies.Photo by Casey Dunn

“The Inn at Green Pastures is our way of offering guests a deeper connection to this special place,” said Jeff Trigger, chairman of the investor board and president of La Corsha Hospitality Group, in a press release. “Whether you're here for a wedding, a quiet getaway or drinks at Henry’s, we want every stay to feel personal, elevated and rooted in the beauty of Austin.”

Rooms at the Inn at Green Pastures start at $395.

openings hotels cocktails pools weddings