HOLD THE LINE

Austin chef's experimental no-phones dessert bar debuts in San Antonio

Nicosi's desserts will focus on unexpected flavors.

Photo by Robert Lerma

As if the Sunday scaries weren’t enough of a bummer, now most of us stomach a weekly reminder that we spend more time fretting about the latest JoJo Siwa misstep than meaningfully engaging with the people in our life. FOMO is real, even if what we’re missing is hardly worth consideration. Truly savoring an evening has become a rare treat.

Though it might not make much of a dent in guest’s screen time reports, a new San Antonio restaurant is challenging expectations of how we enjoy food in the information age. Nicosi, the latest project at Pearl’s ambitious Pullman Market, opens on June 26 with a policy that bucks against the Instagrammification of America’s third places — no phones are allowed.

Inspired by Japanese omakases, the desert bar asks guests to focus on the full sensory experience. Each quarter, Austin-based Emmer & Rye Hospitality Group partner Tavel Bristol-Joseph and chef de cuisine Karla Espinosa will craft a new prix fixe menu meant to redefine diner’s expectations of desserts. No photos or details will be revealed prior to the release of each season’s cycle.

“It has been a dream of mine since I was 17 to be in a space that celebrates desserts and the artistry behind it,” explains Bristol-Joseph via a release. “Nicosi will be a dessert bar unlike any of its kind as we explore and push the boundaries on the thresholds of acid, umami, bitter and sweet in desserts.”

The unconventional approach intends to provoke conversation, both among the guests and with the chefs. The dining room, designed by Baldridge Architects and internal partner Rand Egbert, uses theatrical flourishes like an oversized brass lamp and velvet curtains to envelop diners, and draw focus on the innovative fare.

With only 20 spots available per seating, Nicosi is not a bargain affair. Tabs will run $100 with nonalcoholic pairings and $120 with an added kick. Online reservation s are now available for 5:30 pm and 8 pm slots, Wednesdays through Sundays.

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Genuine Surprise

Austin coffee shop announces return immediately after sudden closure

Genuine Joe Coffeehouse/Instagram

Genuine Joe Coffeehouse is now under and optimistic spell.

An Austin coffee shop has experienced a roller coaster over the past week. On October 31, Genuine Joe Coffeehouse announced it would close, but after some community help, it's back on track to stay open with some changes to make the business more stable going forward. One of those seems to be a new location that hasn't been announced yet, according to a social media post.

The original message announcing the closure was posted on Instagram: "Genuine Joe is closed for the foreseeable future," it said. "Yesterday was our last day of business. We are sorry to the community for the short notice- it surprised all of us too."

As Genuine Joe owner Josh Brown explained to KVUE, the property he rented had been sold to build condos in 2021. After that, the coffee shop only had a lease for up to six months at a time. Finally, KVUE reported, a hard demolition date has been set for February.

In the shop's next Instagram post, management thanked fans for their comments and established a GoFundMe page, which they explicitly said would not go toward reopening. "Donations will not go towards reopening, relocating, or any debt incurred by Genuine Joe Coffeehouse. Everything will go to the staff," wrote Leann Tipton, who is listed as the organizer of the fundraiser.

Just days later, another post went up announcing that Genuine Joe would reopen and continue business at the original location — meaning 2001 W. Anderson Ln. According to the post, what was raised from the now-disabled GoFundMe ($7,762) went entirely to staff in limbo.

The most explanation the post offers is that "a few special members of the GJ family" stepped up to help. It does not mention whether the help was financial or otherwise. It also announced some changes: an increase in prices, reduced hours, and fewer non-core offerings — namely, breakfast tacos.

This is, of course, not the whole story. The post promises to share more news later, specifically detailing the demolition and a new location.

Genuine Joe's current hours according to the post at 7 am to 7 pm on weekdays, and 8 am to 7 pm on weekends. Customers had strong reactions, and it looks like none bemoaned the reasonable changes.

"Crying tears of joy….. my family and friends are going to be so relieved they don’t have to hear me mourn genuine joe on the daily anymore," wrote one commenter. They weren't the only one in tears, if the rest of the comments were any indication.

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