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Where to eat now

Where to eat in Austin right now: 6 strip-mall restaurants that deserve more hype

Brandon Watson
Feb 7, 2019 | 10:30 am

If there’s one lesson everyone should take home from 2017’s tragicomic Fyre Festival, it’s that hype has little correlation to quality. That goes double for Austin restaurants in 2019, where some of the hottest new eateries have less value than an old Ja Rule tape.

This month, we are ignoring the buzz and instead exploring some of the Capital City’s unsung eateries. Their strip mall locations might not be fashionable, but their vibrant global flavors sizzle where it counts.

Andiamo Ristorante
Like a favorite cashmere sweater, this unsung North Austin Italian joint has a lived-in feel that guests want to return to time and time again.That’s not to say it’s not without its surprises. Penne pasta tossed with roasted seafood and sun dried tomatoes is amped up with ground coffee, and duck breast in a balsamic black current reduction slow burns with green chilis. More often than not we snuggle up with a spaghetti carbonara knitted with specks of rich guanciale — a true classic needs no other flash.

La Bodega Gourmet
This charming Bee Cave shop is packed to the ceiling with gourmet treats, including imported cheeses, organic coffee, Spanish wines, and infused oils. There’s also a scattering of paella pans should you choose to attempt to master the famous Catalan soccarat at home. But why bother when chef Eric Paz makes an inspiring new version every day? Enjoy it with a glass of sangria between 6-9 pm on Wednesday and Thursday for only $15.95.

Saffron
Asian fusion may have gained steam in the haute kitchens of the 1980s, but the cross-pollination of foodways was far from a new idea even then. Long before Wolfgang Puck was tossing fried wonton chips on an American chopped salad, Nepalese cooks were borrowing ideas from India, Thailand, and China to create a distinctive hybrid. It’s most glorious creation is arguably the momo, an enthusiastically spiced Himalayan dumpling. Order both the veggie and chicken versions at Saffron to enjoy with an orange wine brought from home.

Tomodachi
With so much of the buzz in Austin sushi coming from the city’s core, it’s easy to forget that big names don’t have the monopoly on quality Japanese fare. A trip north to Steve Riad and Tina Son’s strip-mall stunner quickly disproves that theory with just-caught escolar, toro, and horse mackerel. Those with reservations about raw fish will find much to like, such as delicately battered rock shrimp tempura and udon noodles tangled in a soothing broth.

Troy
Most of Austin’s Mediterranean restaurants butcher meze (they might as well call it meh-ze). The spots offer forlorn pools of hummus and baba ghanoush instead of offering a proper prelude to a feast. Thankfully, there is at least one local eatery that gives meze its proper due. Yes, the familiar eggplant and chickpea spreads are there — and both radiant. Troy also serves acuka (a spicy walnut pâté) and a vegetarian tarama that sneaks in carrots in place of the traditional cured roe. Each are available individually, but we’ll bet you order them all in the grand “best of” plate.

Vazquez Restaurant
There are now three locations of this family Mexican restaurant, but the Braker Lane original still does it best. Visit at breakfast for zesty huevos divorciados, textbook migas, and chilaquiles beefed up with barbacoa. By mid-morning, the eatery is usually bustling with regulars, which might make those seeking hangover relief wince. Never fear, succor comes easy with a michelada rimmed with tajín.

The fare at Saffron is as vibrant as its namesake.

Saffron Austin
Saffron/ Facebook
The fare at Saffron is as vibrant as its namesake.
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At the Altar

Local park invites Austinites to celebrate Día de los Muertos with a community ofrenda

Brianna Caleri
Oct 31, 2022 | 5:10 pm
Dia de los Muertos at Waterloo Park in Austin.
Photo courtesy of Waterloo Greenway

Celebrate Dia de los Muertos at Waterloo Park in Austin this week.

In Austin, there’s way more than one Día de los Muertos; at Waterloo Park, specifically, there’s two. Community members are invited to join the festivities November 1 and 2, remembering friends and family while connecting with the ones here at the Waterloo Greenway. Frida Friday ATX, a monthly collaborative event organizer unified by creatives with an intersectional interest, joins the Greenway in creating this celebration.

The Moody Amphitheater, always ready for a quick change for an event, will become a community ofrenda, where anyone can place the things they would put in a home altar, or something more community-minded. Traditional items include images of loved ones who have died, pan de muertos, flowers, and several other commemorative items. Past years have set the bar for quite a spectacle at the altar, this year designed by Tejana florist and activist Yliana Lara.

Visitors may recognize a friend or a neighbor, or see a creative offering that sparks a memory or inspiration. It’s a good time to embrace the weirdness of Austin with a loved one’s favorite drink, or a special artwork. Visitors can also honor pets at an alebrijes altar, sponsored by Tito’s Handmade Vodka and designed by local artist Ernest Ramirez.

Once visitors have made their offerings, there is plenty to celebrate, including live music and art by painters Carmen Rangel and Ruben Esquivel, and lots of dancing — both folk performances and DJ sets on the amphitheater stage. Kids can have their faces painted, and community partners (cultural nonprofit organizations) will be on site to connect. A market will feature local artisans and food vendors, and a beer garden sponsored by Dos Equis will offer themed cocktails and bites.

Visitors can stop by the altar at Waterloo Park anytime from 6-9 pm on November 1 and 2. More information on programming is available online at waterloogreenway.org.

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400-acre surf park deemed 'biggest' on the planet rides a wave into Austin

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Food & Wine

Austin Food & Wine Festival plates up extra helping of all-star chefs for this weekend's food festivities

Hannah J. Frías
Oct 31, 2022 | 4:07 pm
Austin Food & Wine Festival
Courtesy of Austin Food & Wine Festival

Sample the best local food and wine for a cause this weekend at the Austin Food & Wine Festival.

Just because Austin City Limits Festival is over, doesn't mean festival season is over here in Austin. And for food lovers, one of the best festivals of the year is taking place this weekend. The Austin Food & Wine festival starts on Friday, November 4, and runs through Sunday, November 6.

As if the previously announced lineup of local, regional, and national chefs were not overwhelming enough, the festival recently released an update list for its Chef Showcase lineup, Rock Your Taco event, and Sunday Fire Pit. The Chef Showcase lineup now includes Kyle Mulligan (1417); Robert Mata (Benvolio’s); Laila Bazahm (Eberly); Tano Avila (Grizzelda’s); Nico Harrison (Jacoby’s Restaurant & Mercantile); Wade Guice (Juliet Italian Kitchen); Mike Diaz (Oseyo); and Mike Warnock (The Dirdie Birdie). Amanda Turner (Olamiae) has joined the Rock Your Taco event and Terry Koval (The Deer and the Dove) will be at the Sunday Fire Pit. Be sure to check out our previous article for a full list of other chefs in the lineup.

As if a full weekend of eating and drinking for a cause was not overwhelming enough, the festival added several new events to keep on your radar this weekend. And while this may be bad news for an already-packed schedule, it's great news if you're currently hanging out on the waitlist for tickets, since several of these events are ticketed separately to the festival itself.

Powered by OpenTable, the most recent addition to the weekend's festivities will be a collaboration between top-rated local chefs and restaurants special guest chefs from around the country. Dining Series will take place across all three days of the festival, featuring collaborations between local stars such as Michael Fojtasek (Olamaie, Maie Day) and Tavel Bristol-Joseph (Canje, Emmer & Rye), and Fermín Núñez (Suerte, Este).

On Friday, Fojtasek will welcome special guests Sara Kramer and Sarah Hymanson of Los Angeles restaurant, Kismet, while Brisol-Joseph will partner with Maneet Chauhan, a regular judge on Chopped. Saturday's installment will see Fermín Núñez debut a new weekend lunch at his new East-side establishment, Este. The $115 pre-fixe menu will focus on seafood and includes a welcome cocktail. Tickets to all three events are separate to the festival itself and can be found at austinfoodandwinefestival.com/tickets.

Meanwhile, over at the main festival, another new addition to the lineup is equally star-studded. Dos Hombres Mezcal founders Bryan Cranston and Aaron Paul will gather in the "Meet the Maker" tent on Saturday, November 5, at 3:45 pm to share the serendipitous story behind their brand. Mixologist Paul Ramon will mix a souvenir cocktail for the event, paired with a scallop aguachile from chef Alex Reyes.

For more information on the festival, visit austinfoodandwinefestival.com or head directly their ticket landing page to snag the final few All-in passes and tickets to the Dining Series.

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Small Business Spotlight

Two Austin plant sellers spend a decade together in neighborhood business symbiosis

Brianna Caleri
Oct 31, 2022 | 1:23 pm
Two Austin plant sellers spend a decade together in neighborhood business symbiosis
Photo by Brianna Caleri

East Austin Succulents (pictured) and Tillery Street Plant Company have built a small empire of beautiful and healthy plants, for a beautiful and healthy community.

When I moved to Austin and started collecting plants, I was vaguely privy to discussions about rare plants. People would post in Facebook groups, “I’ve been looking for this plant everywhere. Can’t believe I finally found it.” Or, “Does anyone know where I can look?” East Austin Succulents, a sandy paradise of water-retaining plants and wacky containers, was the source of my naivety.

I couldn’t believe that a casual plant collector would struggle to find anything but the rarest of plants, because East Austin Succulents — my only reference point — had them all. And some of those really rare ones, too.

The succulent nursery shares a long rectangular lot in a mostly residential area along Boggy Creek with another, equally plant-dense vendor, Tillery Street Plant Company. The two have been allies for twelve years, but the businesses are completely separate: One deals in succulents, and the other in basically everything else.

“There is some overlap, but we try to keep it minimal, and try to help each other out,” says longtime manager Melissa Hagen, calling in from the Tillery Street Plant Company “office,” a tiny travel trailer that lives onsite. The businesses will sometimes swap accidental orders to maintain a logical division of wares. It was not a coincidence two complementary businesses found each other.

“Jon [Hutson, the owner of Tillery Street Plant Company,] sold everything,” reflects East Austin Succulents owner Eric Pedley. Hutson was Pedley’s gateway into the space when the pair decided to share the rent in 2010. “And then it was like, well, you if you're gonna let me in, I have to be all succulents. Tillery does cold-hardy landscaping succulents, also, so I don't sell the cold-hardy stuff. And they don't sell things that are not cold-hardy.”

On the left side of the lot, the succulent shop spreads out like a photosynthetic carnival, with white tents casting diffused bright sunlight over hundreds of fleshy and spiny plants. The main tents line up like rooms in a railroad apartment, whose xerophyte residents range from a few dollars to well over $100. An array of pottery outside is one of the most diverse selections a collector could find across the city, and the team will even drill or hammer drainage holes in customer’s items from home, with few limits and a tiny fee.

Next door, without much indication of a change in business operations, a small house or shed stands beside an arched greenhouse. The latter building's sliding barn doors reveal not just a room full of plants, but a tropical forest with a roof. Tables are barely visible under houseplants and between eight-foot trees. With so little real estate, vining and carnivorous plants hang from the ceiling. It's Austin's most immersive art experience, yet still just a plant store. Inside the house, there’s macrame and indoor plant trinkets everywhere.

Plant shops and the people who talk about them risk emphasizing style and volume over plant health. It is most important, although perhaps least interesting, to note: East Austin Succulents and Tillery Street Plant Company sell irreproachably healthy plants.

About a decade ago, when these businesses started growing their roots only a few months apart, the space was “a co-op type thing” in Pedley’s words — a business trailer park. Hagen adds that the trailer owners “sold all sorts of magical things.” At the time, she was teaching yoga at a sweat lodge on site. “It was very much a community space. At one point, it was all gardens, and then it was [an] event space, and now it's kind of like our landscape.”

Although the two businesses have taken over the entire space, the community spirit prevails. It’d be hard to stifle, when it comes to plants, a major common denominator between basically anyone with their own space and the ability (or at least desire) to keep something alive. “The east side is changing,” says Hagen. “And a lot of people now don't even necessarily have yards; they have condos. [But] everybody has window sills, pretty much.”

It’s no surprise that houseplants experienced a sales boom as the pandemic kept more people at home. Not only did people at home have an incentive to bring the outside in — and the time to tend to something carefully — they had something to talk about. The first two years brought obvious hardship for many businesses, but broke sales records for the succulent shop.

East Austin Succulents social media director and retail manager Sonja Muniz runs with this willingness to engage, posting this-or-that polls that compare unique plants for sale, managing plant auctions, and sharing care tips with a strong, irreverent voice that’s either a charismatic wakeup call, or a vehicle for catharsis for home growers that have been trying to politely explain the issue on their own.

“People like to do games,” says Muniz. “You can only do scrolling so much. This-or-that gets people engaged with the variety of products we have. And it’s also just something fun that even if you don't like plants, you can still pick a plant you like.”

During Winter Storm Uri (the February 2021 “Snowpocalypse”), businesses all over Austin scrambled to minimize damage, turning to social media to check in with supporters and request patience and support. These nurseries barely had solid walls to rely on, let alone the temperatures most plants need to stay alive. Yet, as staff from both businesses hauled plants around to safer conditions and trimmed dead leaves, it somehow looked like they were having a good time.

“Yeah, we have to,” confirms Muniz. “We have a small-knit crew and our nursery was about maybe five of us on the team. So we had to really buckle down. It's kind of working on a ship.”

It wasn’t smooth sailing, but most of both businesses' inventory survived, and the teams took the opportunity to set an example for regular Austinites bringing their own plants back to stability. Comments from the days following the storm are littered with requests for advice. East Austin Succulents accepted texts to the store phone, diagnosing issues and prescribing care. (“We're kind of more like doctors on our social media,” says Muniz, reconsidering her metaphor.)

If all three plant people — Pedley, Hagen, and Muniz — share something with each other, their customers, and the plant world at large, it’s a compulsion to give advice. It’s woven through every conversation and medium. Both businesses are always planning workshops, seed swaps, and other opportunities for Austinites to gather and share experiences in this old neighborhood.

East Austin Succulents interior

Photo by Brianna Caleri

East Austin Succulents (pictured) and Tillery Street Plant Company have built a small empire of beautiful and healthy plants, for a beautiful and healthy community.

Their top three pieces of advice: buy plants in good soil or repot them right away; let people with experience help you fall in love with the right plants for you; and sometimes things die. We’ve all killed plants, but there are people out there to help each other learn.

“It's just been bit by bit,” says Pedley of his own journey from bewildered non-plant person to a local cactus hero. “Baby steps to, you know … just what we're doing now.”

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