Austin's culinary variety thrives at one of its only true food halls, Fareground. (The more common food truck parks are another, beautiful story.) New to the always-changing fray on August 23 is Y Comida, focusing on sharable small plates and South Texas cuisine.
Although a change in the lineup is nothing new at Fareground, which is a committed incubator for restaurants breaking into the scene, this addition is unique; It's the first time one of the resident eateries will be working out of Ellis, the food hall's permanent cocktail bar. For now it's just a popup through the end of 2024, but it may join as a long-term partner when that time comes.
Chef Nick Middleton leads Y Comida, whose name hints at its priorities: good times with loved ones first, and [then] food. Having been on the opening team at Pitmaster Aaron Franklin and Chef Tyson Cole's very popular Loro, Middleton definitely has experience getting a successful restaurant off the ground. He's also spent time as "the creative force" behind Zeds Real Fruit Ice Cream, and started his career selling his family's gumbo from his East Austin garage.
Chef Nick Middleton poses in front of his new home base.Photo courtesy of Fareground
Until now, Y Comida has operated in a catering capacity — like at this creative wedding — and in two-month residencies at Round Top, halfway between Austin and Houston, where the whole team lives together in one house. Assuming this close-knit group keeps up its artistic plating, Y Comida be one of the most upscale restaurants that's passed through Fareground's doors. Still, dishes stay at a casual price point of $9-16.
A release previews some menu items: 12-hour brisket confit tacos with salsa macha and avocado; guajillo duck carnitas tacos, with mole rojo; and mezcal affogato, drenching canela (cinnamon) cream ice cream with mezcal, coffee, and "warming spices."
Y Comida's simple dishes usually have an artsy presentation, even with just a few ingredients.Photo courtesy of Fareground
"Y Comida is more than just a restaurant concept to me; It’s a tribute to the flavors and traditions that have shaped my life," said Middleton in the release. "Fareground offers a collaborative environment where I can bring these flavors to life, surrounded by other talented chefs and a community that truly appreciates culinary creativity. I’m excited to share this journey with Austin and to create meals that feel like home.”
Marking the occasion, Ellis is launching a new agave-focused menu that should pair well with Y Comida's offerings. New cocktails include La Playa Blanca with tequila, coconut, and lime orgeat; and the Pasado de Moda with mezcal, piloncillo, and mole bitters.
On the left is La Playa Blanca, accompanied by a mystery drink called Aloe There.Photo courtesy of Fareground
There are seven other current residents at Fareground: Austin Rôtisserie,Taco Pegaso, Four Brothers, Shawarma Point, Freshii, Austin Snack Co., and the cocktail bar Drink. Austin foodies may notice that some of these eateries have already achieved strong reputations elsewhere, especially in food trucks. The restaurants that join this incubator tend to already be on the rise, so it's not surprising when they see even further success later.
Fareground's survival despite the pandemic is a success in itself, since it closed, changed management, and reopened with some original restaurants and some newcomers. Now the participating restaurants are all different from the original group, which included spin-offs by Contigo, Easy Tiger, Dai Due, Komé, and Antonelli's, as well as a new effort by Emmer & Rye Hospitality Group, Henbit.
Y Comida will be open at 111 Congress Ave. from Wednesdays through Saturdays from 3-8:30 pm. The restaurant will not accept reservations. Ellis is open Tuesdays through Thursdays from 3-10 pm, Fridays and Saturdays from 3-11 pm, and Sundays from 3-7 pm. More information about Y Comida is available at ycomida.com.
